Why do we need UPS? How uninterruptible power supplies (UPS) are designed and work Uninterruptible power supply new application

UPS stands for "source uninterruptible power supply". Abbreviation in English - UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) , therefore the names UPS, YUPS, and oopsnik are also common.

The main function of an uninterruptible power supply is to ensure the supply of electricity to the equipment connected to it during outages in the main network. But, depending on the type of equipment, the parameters of such autonomous power supply may be required to be radically different. Accordingly, the UPS market offers different types devices that differ in a lot of parameters:

principle of operation: offline, linear-interactive, online;
type of automatic voltage regulation;
quality of filtering network interference;
capacity (number of ampere-hours, or in other words - for how long battery life that's enough);
time to switch to batteries during a power outage;
possibility of connecting additional external batteries;
various additional functions (filtering sockets, sockets for telephone and network cables, LCD display, synchronization with a PC), etc.

How to choose a UPS with such a variety of models ? How to understand how they differ? In this article we will look at the main types of uninterruptible power supplies, their differences, and what additional functions manufacturers equip UPS with. In the next one - how to choose a UPS depending on the features of your equipment, how to calculate its required power, etc.

Three main types of UPS

Off-line (Back-UPS, backup, Standby) uninterruptible power supply

Example of a backup UPS: model .

The operating principle of this type of uninterruptible power supply is very simple:

As long as there is electricity in the network within the set values, the UPS supplies the connected devices with voltage directly from the network, while simultaneously recharging the battery. The power passing through the UPS is not regulated; pulses and noise are filtered at the simplest level, using passive filters. The signal shape corresponds to the network signal, i.e., a sinusoid.

As soon as the mains power is lost, the UPS switches to battery power. The inverter that converts direct current from the battery into alternating current output is one of the simplest installed in this type of UPS, so the waveform does not correspond to the correct sine wave. The maximum that manufacturers do is to bring it somewhat closer to a sinusoid, making it stepwise.

The UPS also switches to off-line autonomous power supply if the voltage level in the network falls below or rises above the threshold values, they can be different depending on the brand of uninterruptible power supply.

Switching time to batteries in various models ranges from 5 to 20 ms. This is relatively long, and for some equipment models such a long delay may adversely affect operation . The long-term operation of the relay is due to the fact that the device needs the phases of the mains and battery voltages to coincide when the autonomous power is turned on, and since they are not synchronized, this takes some time.

Scheme of operation of a backup uninterruptible power supply.

Pros of Standby UPS:

inexpensive price,
high efficiency,
silent operation.

Flaws:

long switchover to battery operation (from 5 to 20 ms);
the output signal shape is not a sinusoid;
filtering interference, noise and impulsesquite rough on the line;
there is no voltage and frequency adjustment when operating from the network.

Line-interactive UPS

Example of a line-interactive UPS: model

Buyers choose this type of uninterruptible power supply most often, as it optimally combines functionality and price.

IN schematic diagram operation of line-interactive UPS includes AVR - module for automatic regulation of incoming network voltage. That is, unlike a backup UPS, it not only passes power through itself, but also stabilizes it, although not smoothly, but in steps.

When operating from the mains at normal voltage levels, the line-interactive uninterruptible power supply passes the incoming signal through passive interference and noise filters, while the battery is charged.

When the voltage in the network increases or decreases, the line-interactive UPS makes its stepwise adjustment. When the voltage reaches a certain threshold, the AVR lowers or lowers it by a fixed amount (or percentage). Several such threshold-steps can be specified in the AVR operating scheme; also, for working with a lower and higher level, a different number of adjustment steps can be assigned (for example, 2 for an increase, and 1 for a decrease).

If the mains voltage drops or rises to values that lie outside the available input range of the uninterruptible power supply, the device switches to battery operation, just as in the case of a complete power outage. These minimums and maximums may vary depending on the load on the UPS. For example, if the UPS is 70% loaded and the voltmeter shows 160V in the network, the uninterruptible power supply switches to the batteries. And at 30% load and a voltage of 150V, it still makes adjustments using an AVR transformer.

Some linear-interactive models are no different in the shape of the output signal from backup-type uninterruptible power supplies: they have a stepped sine wave. Some manufacturers, especially with the growing demand for UPS for boilers, equip their uninterruptible power supply systems with inverters that produce the correct sine wave.

The switchover time to battery operation in a pure sine wave line-interactive UPS is faster than that of its standby counterparts. The reason is that in UPSs of this type, the voltage waveforms coincide (both from the network and from the battery, this is a sinusoid), which speeds up phase synchronization and, accordingly, the start of autonomous power supply.

Pros of line-interactive UPS:

reasonable price,
silent operation,
automatic regulation of incoming voltage,
in some models - pure sine wave at the output,
switching time is less than in backup ones (on average 4-8 ms, in some models 2-4 ms).

Flaws:

no frequency adjustment,
insufficiently complete filtering of interference, noise and network impulses,
voltage regulation is not smooth, but stepwise,
The efficiency is lower than in an off-line uninterruptible power supply.

Double conversion UPS (on-line)

UPS example with double conversion: model .

This is the most expensive, but also the most best view UPS. It is optimally suited for expensive, capricious equipment, for which not only constant voltage is important, but also frequency, as well as effective noise filtering, a signal in the form of a pure sine wave, and the absence of delays when switching to battery operation.

In fact, such an uninterruptible power supply operates constantly, stabilizing, filtering the incoming signal, equalizing the frequency and shape of the output signal.

In mains mode, the incoming AC voltage is stabilized and converted to DC by the rectifier and distributed between the battery (for recharging if necessary) and the inverter. The inverter converts direct current into alternating current, producing an output signal in the form of a pure sine wave, the correct frequency, the correct voltage. Interference and noise are completely absent - they simply do not remain after double conversion.

This constant “inclusion” of the uninterruptible power supply into the network provides one of its significant advantages: Instant switching to battery operation. Actually, it’s hard to even call it “switching”, since power passes through the rectifier, battery (during charging) and inverter constantly. When the network voltage drops below threshold values or there is a complete power outage, the inverter simply begins to take part of the energy from the battery, and not from the rectifier. It happens instantly.

Double conversion UPSs usually have another operating mode: bypass. This is a backup line that goes directly from the input to the output of the UPS, bypassing the rectifier, battery and inverter. It allows in critical moments for the UPS: overload (for example, with starting currents), failure of the inverter and others - to supply electricity directly to the connected devices, avoiding failure of the device elements.

Constant operation of the UPS has a certain disadvantage: increased heat generation, which requires efficient cooling. Therefore, UPS online are most often equipped with fans, which makes their operation in residential areas not as comfortable as other types of silent uninterruptible power supplies.

Pros of online UPS:

constant voltage stabilization,
constant frequency stabilization,
pure sine wave at the output,
effective filtering of noise, impulses and interference,
Instant switching to batteries.

Flaws:

high price,
increased noise level,
the lowest efficiency among all types of UPS.

When choosing an uninterruptible power supply, you need to take into account that there are exceptions. Some line-interactive UPSs may cost more than online models from another manufacturer, the switching time to battery operation in a backup UPS may be no more, or even less, than in some line-interactive UPS, etc. Therefore, In any case, you need to read the specifications specific model.

Additional UPS functionality

In addition to determining the type of uninterruptible power supply you need, when choosing a UPS you should also pay attention to what functionality is included in it. UPS may have different additional functions and design features:

Synchronization with PC. This feature is not present in the cheapest models, but it is very convenient. Using special software, the UPS transmits data in real mode to the computer about the state of the power line and battery charge level. In addition to the purely informational component, there are also features such as, for example, autonomous shutdown of the computer while saving data in all applications during a power outage.

Cold start. An uninterruptible power supply equipped with this function can be turned on when there is no power in the network. For example, the lights went out, you saved the documents, turned off the computer and UPS, but after some time there was an urgent need to copy the document to a flash drive. A UPS with cold start support can be turned on, even if there is still no power, and get the job done.

Previously, connectors for connecting devices in a UPS looked basically like this:

This IEC 320 standard connector is ideal for connecting a variety of computer equipment. However, equipment with a regular power cord is the same WiFi router, you can’t connect it to it. For these purposes, you can use a surge protector with a similar connector, which is connected to the UPS, and then connect various equipment to it. But this is not always convenient.

Therefore, now many models have simply begun to be supplemented with Schuko-type sockets (in our country they are often called Euro sockets) so that the equipment can be turned on directly:

Sockets for filtering interference. A UPS may be equipped with an outlet or several for sensitive equipment that does not provide power support during a power outage but protects the connected equipment from utility power interference.

Sockets for telephone line, twisted pair. High-voltage pulses can be transmitted not only directly via an electric power cable, but also in the event of various accidents and breakdowns - both via a telephone cable and twisted pair cable. To protect telephone, network and computer equipment Some manufacturers provide special connectors (input/output) where you can connect a telephone or Internet line.

To be continued in the next article.

website

UPS selection

First of all, you should pay attention to the following characteristics:

Maximum power, measured in volt-amperes “VA” and watts “W” (the choice depends on the power of the computer and monitor, the larger they are, the larger the UPS numbers should be);
Battery life at full and half load (good performance: 5 and 15 minutes);
Input voltage range (to what extent will the UPS cope without using a battery, preferably 180-250 Volts or wider);
The number and type of sockets for connecting devices (there may be ordinary “Euro-sockets”, or there may be special computer ones).

When buying a UPS, it’s better not to save money, otherwise you’ll have to pay extra regularly (for too-frequent battery replacement or repairs), and who wants that?

When choosing an uninterruptible power supply, you can follow a simple rule: don't buy for less than $90.

There is one thing exception to this rule which I described in comments to this article ().

Starting from $150-200, there are even more reliable models that work on a more advanced principle, but this price is no longer affordable for everyone.

Compatibility of UPS and computer power supply

There is one important thing to know before purchasing a UPS that is not often discussed:

Some computer power supplies do not work correctly with the UPS!
You can check with the seller by informing the model of the power supply.

In one of the subsequent IT lessons (but at a higher level of training) we will look at why this is so and how to avoid this problem. If the question persists, then ask in the comments to this article, I will try to help.

Connecting a surge protector and UPS

The connection is quite simple:

The power cord of the system unit, monitor and other external devices (scanner, printer, etc.) is included in the surge protector or UPS.
The cord plug of the filter itself or the UPS is connected to the home electrical outlet.

If you use a UPS, then it is not necessary to connect a surge protector, except to increase the number of outlets or as an extension cord.

Note:laser printer cannot be connected to a UPS, since it has too much power; often a special socket is provided for it, which is not powered by a battery, but has an interference filter (in the last photo in the article such an socket is painted white).

Summarize

The main idea of this lesson is that a surge protector and an uninterruptible power supply are necessary things and should be used with every computer. If you don’t have these devices yet, be sure to at least buy a surge protector!

So, we’ve sorted out the important additions, now we can move on to the sixth IT lesson. It's on its way, stay tuned! Here is a link to receive site news by email.

Copying prohibited

Video supplement

Today, as an addition, there is a video from the Chip and Dip company about uninterruptible power supplies:

P.S. Isn't the information too complicated? I have a request for you: write in the comments to this article what is not clearly described, I will correct it!

Share with your friends:

Communication and exchange of experience (146 comments):

And I will criticize, because... The article is written VERY superficially.
UPS cost from 600 UAH. Normal, inexpensive, reliable ARS. There are no alternatives in terms of durability and reliability, which is actually shown in the photo in your article.
Are you generally silent about protecting telephone lines?

Network filters? For 30 UAH there will be a cheap Chinese Noname extension cord. As you write, “the best protection” will be provided by ARS, Belkin, costing 150-200 UAH. And the ability to turn off the power separately in each outlet, like in Sven Pro? And again, protection of bodies. and lan lines?

And why isn’t a word said about the third type of protection—stabilizers?

The article is intended for housewives who will need a UPS only in order to have time to save the page in Odnoklassniki.

No offense.

I love and welcome criticism (if it is justified, adequate and constructive).

I will answer your comment, Valentin.

1. UPS from 600 UAH
The UPS, which is shown in the photo, has served me for 11 years without replacing the battery and is now no longer available.
There is a UPS that costs $80 (640 UAH) APC BK500-RS almost like mine, it doesn't have phone line protection, but the model mentioned is really good. This model can be considered exception to the rule.
The next most expensive model, BK500EI, costs more than 800 UAH (it has a wider voltage range and connection to a computer via USB and a telephone line filter).
(A link to this note has been added to the article.)

2. About the superficiality of the article.
Most likely, you did not pay attention to the site description and the category of this article.
Let me explain: this site is a guide from beginner to professional, and the complexity of the material increases gradually. This lesson belongs to the “Level 1 Beginner” category, so I deliberately did not complicate the material. When we get to Levels 2 and 3, then we’ll take a closer look at the different components, including those mentioned in this lesson.

3. “As you write, “the best protection” will be provided by ARS, Belkin, costing 150-200 UAH.”
Where did you see that I recommend “Belkin worth 150-200 UAH”? What about the phrase about UPS “don’t buy less than $90”? It’s about surge protectors that I said “the best protection is models from $12”, which includes Sven, Platinum Pro.

4. About the protection of telephone lines, separate switches for sockets, stabilizers, etc.
Not everyone needs telephone line protection anymore, but it is available in the recommended price range. As an electronics engineer, I can explain the effectiveness of this protection “for show” (in this price range).

I have a networked Sven, Platinum Pro, and from my own experience I can say that not everyone needs separate switches, this is far from the main characteristic.

I did not mention stabilizers, since they are used less frequently (again, based on my practice), and determining the need for them, and even more so their choice, is a separate topic.

The main thing that should remain in the mind of a beginner after this article is the importance of the need for at least a surge protector, as well as the idea of purchasing a UPS.

But I have nothing to be offended by, on the contrary, thanks for the criticism!

It’s not entirely clear to me how the network voltage and line filter are filtered. Maybe this surge protector has some kind of circuit other than five sockets for plugs. My computer and other consumers are powered by a voltage regulator. The question is how can you connect a car battery to a voltage stabilizer to protect yourself from unexpected power outages.

Of course, Victor, in addition to sockets, the surge protector contains elements that reduce sudden voltage surges (which last a fraction of a second).

It is not possible to connect a car battery directly to the stabilizer. Additional special circuits are needed: one to convert the battery voltage (+12V) to the computer supply voltage (~220V), the second to monitor the lack of voltage in the network and switch the power to the battery with the converter. This is all in a simplified form.

I don’t think there’s any point in trying to make such circuits yourself, since cheaper, more reliable And safer use uninterruptable power source(UPS).

I bought a UPS Vercom 425. Please explain whether I connected the system unit and monitor to the back panel of the UPS correctly. There are 3 sockets on the left for BATTERY BACKUP, I connected 1 monitor on top, 2 below it - the system unit. Did I do the right thing by connecting the monitor and system unit to the OUTPUT of the UPS with backup power? It's all on the left. On the right there are 2 UPS_OUTPUTS sockets with voltage filtering only. I did not install anything into these sockets and also on the right under them there is an INPUT network connector; I connected this connector with a plug to the surge protector socket. Please write to my email. There was no driver or instructions in the package, I'll go to the store to figure it out.

Hello, Lyudmila.

Since there is no exact description of your UPS model, I can only answer based on the comment, from which I can assume that you have a model IMP-425AP or IMD-425AP. If so, then the monitor and system unit You have connected correctly (in the photo from the official website it says “UPS+Surge”).

The instructions, of course, should be included with the UPS itself. If the store gets stubborn, you can download the instructions from the official website.

Check the model designation on the UPS itself, if you have any questions, please contact us.

Thank you, Seryozha, for your quick response! The full name of my UPS is Line Interactive UPS. Imperial UPS, with display. Improved protection. The store gave instructions and a USB cable. When I connected this cable, it’s good that I have many slots on the back and front panels of the system unit. Battery 1 readings appeared. HID UPS Battery, chemical composition PdAc. Energy reserve - mains power. What confuses me is what is written about the battery: the date of manufacture is December 23, 2009. Isn’t the battery a little old? There was no driver. I downloaded the UPSMON program from the Internet, but it says it is impossible to connect to the UPS. I have a 4-core computer, Athlone 640 3.0 GHz, video card GT 440 1 GB (128), screw 750 GB, RAM 4 GB. BP-400. The computer is sealed for 2 years (warranty). All data from AID. It seems to me that a UPS with 425 VA, 255 watts is rather weak for my computer, although enhanced protection is written. The computer was mainly used for gaming. I look forward to your advice. Sincerely, Ludmila.

Indeed, for your configuration the power of a 255 W UPS is small.

Here is an approximate calculation of the power of your PC:
Athlone 640 processor - up to 95 W
Video adapter GT 400 - up to 65 W
Motherboard - up to 35 W
Hard drive - about 12 W
DVD - about 10 W
RAM – up to 10 W
USB devices etc. - up to 10 W
Total for the system unit: 237 W
Add 20% to the reserve and get 285 W

Let's not forget about the monitor (what diagonal?) for a 22 inch monitor 30-45 W

Total system unit + monitor - up to 330 W at maximum load!
Actual figures may be lower, but the UPS capacity is desirable not less than 300 Watt.

P.S. I would also pay attention to the computer's power supply. If the manufacturer is too “economical”, then the real maximum power may not be 400 Watts, but somewhere around 200-300 Watts. If the power supply is of high quality, then there should be no problems.

Regarding the date of manufacture, I will give an excerpt from the instructions for the UPS:

6.3 Conditions for long-term storage of the UPS
6.3.1. When the storage environment temperature is -15°C to +30°C (+5°F to +86°F), the UPS battery must be recharged every 6 months.
6.3.2. When the storage environment temperature is between +30°C and +45°C (+86°F and +113°F), the UPS system battery must be recharged every 3 months.

Those. we can conclude that two years of storage without recharging could well reduce the battery life. It is difficult to say exactly how much it has been reduced.

Monique Acer 19*, I think it is ideal for close distance on a table, large monicas greatly affect the eyes (close distance on a computer table). The upgrade can be done only after 1 year, the warranty is for 2 years. But my computer is very quiet, it runs all the games Black Ops, Crisis, Metro, etc. without problems. WDC WD7500AARS-00Y5B1
Temperature 34 °C

Winbond W83627DHG-P
CPU VCore 1.408 V
AVCC 3.344 V
3VCC 3.344V
3VSB 3.472 V
CPU 40.50 °C
Auxiliary 33.50 °C
System 33.00 °C
System Fan 20149 RPM
CPU Fan 1082 RPM
This is the tempo now. after cs 1.6. If I just change it, then south bridge Asrosk's mother is 68, I think that she is rather weak for my computer. Although it is better not to upgrade, but to buy a powerful one every 3 years gaming pc. AUH - I think this is the temperature of the power supply.

Vision is more affected not by the diagonal, but by the brightness and the method of adjusting it, which was implemented by the monitor manufacturer (a separate article is planned on this topic for IT lessons).
Also affecting fatigue is the size of interface parts, which depends on the screen resolution for the current diagonal.
But we digress, the question was about the power of the monitor :)

As far as temperatures are concerned, everything is fine, but initially we were talking about the quality of the power supply.
You can compare voltages (especially +12 V) at minimum and maximum load. But it’s better not programmatically, but actually (with a tester), only in your case this is not possible (the system unit is sealed).
If the voltage deviations are large enough, then it is better not to trust such a power supply.

Good afternoon, I’d like to ask a question about the UPS and the interference (running background waves) displayed on the monitor (LCD) due to it, which are noticeable mainly only in the latest games (Crisis 2, The Witcher 2, Sniper Elite, Battlefield 3)
Monitor - Asus 24T1E-H
UPS-EP1500
The outlet is not grounded.

Diagnostics:
1. When connecting the monitor directly to a free socket, no interference was detected. (UPS at a distance of ~ 1 meter from the monitor)
2. When connecting to the surge protector socket in 1 plug, the UPS power cord is inserted into the 2nd power cord of the monitor - Interference is detected.
3. Connecting the monitor power directly to the UPS (connected to an outlet without grounding) - Interference is detected.

P.S.
1. A PC with an Antec HCG 750 power supply is connected to this UPS
2. This interference is noticeable only in powerful 3D games; there is no such interference when watching movies or working in the OS.
3. During all tests, the UPS did not move and is located at a distance of approximately 1 meter. (I didn’t see any point in rearranging, since connecting directly to the network there was no interference detected.)
4. I tried to connect the APC P1-RS surge protector to the UPS (which, according to the manufacturer’s specifications, filters out EM interference), and connected the monitor’s power cable to it, but it didn’t help.

Please tell me how you can get rid of interference by connecting a monitor with a system unit to the UPS.
Grounding will not be possible.

Thank you for your attention.
With respect, Chernyshenko Vladimir Anatolyevich.

So, about stabilizers - as far as I understand, they are something intermediate between a surge protector and a UPS, but not all UPSs have stabilizer functions. But in what situations are stabilizers needed in practice? Do they perform the functions of a surge protector or do they exclusively stabilize under/overvoltage?

The situation is this - the air conditioner causes the lights in the apartment to blink and the computer to play games (i.e. under load), sometimes it goes into reboot - will a stabilizer solve this problem or should you definitely spend money on a more expensive UPS?

Alexey, first let’s clarify two questions:
1. Does the light blink periodically for short periods of time (up to 1 second), or does the light remain dim for a longer period of time (more than 5 seconds) and then return to normal?
If periodically and up to 1 second, then the UPS should cope.
2. Did I understand correctly that you already have a UPS and, despite this, the computer reboots during short (?) power surges?
Regarding stabilizers. Their purpose is to bring the voltage level to normal (220 V) and maintain it for a long period of time. If power surges are rare and short, and generally the voltage is normal (about 220 V), then a good UPS is preferable.
- 1. The light blinks for a split second.
  
  2. No, there is no UPS.
  
  In general, I would like to understand what is called reverse continuity between these three devices - filter, stub and UPS. Those. Will the stabilizer perform functions including line filter, and the UPS performs the functions of a line filter and stabilizer? Or, if I want to provide maximum protection, should I buy a surge protector, connect a stabilizer to it, and power the UPS from the stabilizer?
  
  And another question regarding power supplies - as far as I know, various protection, filtering and voltage stabilization systems are already built into expensive power supply models - is this true and if so, how does this correlate with the equipment we are discussing (filter, stub, UPS)? And how to determine the presence of such functionality in the power supply.
  
  Thanks for answers.
  - The power supply unit, UPS and stabilizer must contain a filter, but in cheap models the manufacturer “misses” it or greatly simplifies it.
    Expensive UPSs contain both a filter and a stabilizer. You can recognize them by their markings "Line-interactive" (interactive). For maximum(!) protection, servers use a “double conversion” or “Online” UPS.
    The stabilizer is mainly used to power household equipment (when the voltage deviates greatly from the standard or there are frequent voltage surges in the network). For a PC, a good UPS is preferable, if necessary, then with a built-in stabilizer.
    The input voltage range (and for the power supply too) is indicated in the specifications.
    - It turns out to be more profitable to take some FSP Aurum CM 550W which has a filter, a 90-264V stabilizer and all kinds of protection (OCP, OVP, SCP, OPP, OTP, UVP), rather than spending money on expensive filters, stubs and UPS. Who doesn’t need backup for the work done in the form of a battery, of course.
      
      Apparently, rebooting the computer is not associated with the blinking of the light, at least I have not traced the dependence - I can leave it overnight, and wake up in the morning and find that it has rebooted. At the same time, without blue screens and other errors, it just suddenly goes into overload and that’s it. It doesn't happen often, but it's annoying. Could this be related to the power supply? I have FSP HEXA 500W 80 PLUS.
      - It is difficult to find a good stabilizer with an input range of 90-264V, and at an affordable price.
        I repeat, it is better to take a good PSU (from 40-50 USD) + a good UPS (from 80-90 USD).
        
        As for periodically rebooting the computer, it’s impossible to say offhand. Look at "System Log".
        Maybe a power supply, and RAM, and a SP, and a HDD, and a video adapter...

Hello, please tell me what is the reason. The computer turns off at night, and does not work in the morning, it turns on only when the cord from the system to the power supply is replaced, while the power supply itself is working and another computer is working with the same cord that was replaced and the same power supply

Hello Tatiana.
Judging by the description, it looks like there is poor contact between the cord and the connector in the power supply. It is very rare, but I had a similar case in practice. If everything works well with the second cord, then leave it and the problem is solved, if the problem persists, then try the following option:
It is necessary to check (visually) the contacts on the pins in the power supply connector; if they are oxidized or dark, then carefully clean them. You may have to choose a cord that will work well in a given socket on your power supply.
But these recommendations are relevant, only if you described the problem completely.
1. The phrase is confusing “cord from system to power supply”. May be “cord from the system unit to the UPS”? Where does the cord from the power supply in the system unit connect?
2. Is there a surge protector and/or UPS?
3. In the morning, when the computer does not turn on, have you tried simply unplugging the cord from the outlet, then plugging it back in and pressing the power button?

Good afternoon, Seryozha! I have already asked for your help and am grateful to you for your professional answers. Sorry, I need your advice again: the tray shows the battery icon from the UPS 99% (remaining). Battery name
HID UPS Battery, chemical composition PbAc, energy reserve: mains power, charging. Date of manufacture 12/23/09 Question: the battery can be changed, the UPS has a 2 month lifespan. Sincerely, Ludmila.

Hello, Lyudmila.
Considering that the battery is 2.5 years old (since production), 1% wear is a very good indicator. There is no point in changing the battery for now, keep an eye on its condition in the next 2-4 months. If the condition of the battery deteriorates by more than 5% in 2 months, then you should think about wearing it out too quickly. But now there is no reason to worry.

Good day, Sergey! As always, I hope for your professional answer! The UPS is standing, the monitor and system unit are connected to it, then it is connected to the surge protector, the surge protector is already connected to the outlet. Question: during a thunderstorm, if there is a UPS, do you need to pull out the mains plug from the system unit and remove the plug from the mains filter?

Hello, Lyudmila.
During a thunderstorm, the first thing you need to do is disconnect the cord through which you are connected to the Internet (twisted pair from a network card or router, telephone cable from a modem). After disconnecting, it is advisable to place the cord away from the connector and the device itself (computer, laptop, router, modem).
Why in the first place? Statistics show that most often it breaks down during a thunderstorm. LAN card and/or PC motherboard.

Secondly, it is desirable unplug the device that powers the computer (filter, UPS or power supply cord). Additionally, there is no point in unplugging the cord from the power supply. It is also advisable to place the disconnected plug at a distance from the outlet.

At all, During a thunderstorm, it is advisable to turn it off from the electrical network all devices, especially in a private house.

*After disconnecting, it is advisable to place the cord away from the connector and the device itself (computer*, - I DIDN’T KNOW!

*It is also advisable to place the disconnected plug at a distance from the outlet* -. DONT KNOW!

This means that the UPS will not save the computer during a thunderstorm!

Thank you very much, Seryozha! So I will do as you advised!

Good morning, Seryozha! You are like an ambulance for my computer. On this battery, right-click: Power properties, there is a tab: control circuits, power supply, now I will list:
Home/desktop
Portable
Presentation
Always on
Energy Saving Manager
Battery Saving
In control of the game mode plan
Which scheme is the best, what can you say about BATTERY SAVING?
I installed Home/Desktop.
Sometimes the charge appears at 96%, I click refresh, it returns to 99%.
Sl. tab: power buttons
it says when you press the computer power button it shuts down
When you press the sleep button, it goes into standby mode. This is how it stands for me.
I turned off sleep mode
Alarm tab: Low battery signal, check the box to ENABLE this charge at 30% level
The signal for almost complete battery discharge is checked: ENABLE such a signal at a level of 99%
The tray shows the battery icon from the UPS 99% (remaining), sometimes it shows 66%. Battery name
HID UPS Battery, chemical composition PbAc, energy reserve: mains power, charging. Date of manufacture: 12/23/09. I bought the UPS in May 2012, the UPS itself is from 2011, why do they put old batteries in the UPS?
I trust you, so I really need your advice! Sincerely, Ludmila

Thank you, Seryozha! Everything is clear and understandable! Today the lights turned off, the UPS beeped, there was a message on the monitor, change the battery urgently, the charge was 77%. There was no light for about 5 minutes, the UPS did not turn off, it beeped, and then the light turned on and the battery began to charge to 96 percent. Sometimes 99% appears, but less often, five months have passed. after purchasing the UPS. The UPS itself does not need to be changed, only the batteries, right? What is the cost of these batteries? I only have one. When I buy, how will I determine the year of manufacture of the battery? Sorry again, I have no one else to turn to, I don’t trust sellers, they would like to sell stale goods.

This may be off-topic: in May 2013, the 2-year warranty of my system unit, the case of which is sealed with stickers, expires. Am I doing the right thing?
1. Have it cleaned from dust by a specialist and replace all coolers and radiators with expensive ones.
2. I have a cheap budget motherboard, where the south bridge heats up to 65 degrees in games in the summer, is it suitable for a Gifors GT 560 DDR5 video card (I know that the 256 bus is better than 128) not 1 GB, but 512 MB, but tire 256
3. I won’t add RAM, because I love XP and don’t want to change to another OS, but 4 GB is enough for me (for CS and other computer games)
I have a 440 GB power supply, I think the new video card won’t handle it, I’ll change it to a 650 PB chief.
Your advice: can my mother withstand this upgrade? I like the AMD quad-core 640, it doesn’t heat up. Maybe just change the cooler and radiator on the video card? I need your advice as a specialist. Sincerely, Ludmila.

A 20% discharge in 5 minutes is quite normal, you don’t have to change the battery. When it discharges to 20% in 5 minutes, then you can think about replacing it.
I wonder if the “change battery” message came from the OS or from the UPS manufacturer’s program?
How did the UPS beep? The instructions for something similar to yours indicate the following:

Rare beeps (once every 2 seconds) - battery backup.
Frequent beeps (2 times per second) - Low battery charge.
Continuous sound signal- Overload.

Of course, the uninterruptible power supply itself does not need to be changed - only the battery.
To find out the cost, you can look here: http://hotline.ua/computer/akkumulyatory-dlya-ibp/ (as I understand, you live in Ukraine).
Presumably you have a battery C.S.B. GP1272 F2 or Yuasa NPW36-12 (maybe NPW45-12), exact model check when disassembling the UPS (see instructions). The link to the first http://hotline.ua/computer-akkumulyatory-dlya-ibp/csb-battery-gp1272/ indicates a price range of 180 - 235 UAH.

date of manufacture indicated on the battery case:
- For CSB it is a circle with an arrow;
— For Yuasa, these are the numbers near the red terminal, the first two are the year, the third and fourth are the month (09021830 - February 2009).

Hello...Today something happened to the PC and it froze...I had to turn it off directly from the socket (Nothing helped...after that I barely turned it on (and then when all the cords were well connected), but now I can’t turn off the UPS ((lit button and that’s it.. I press it, but it doesn’t turn off.. I unplug it from the socket and it beeps and that’s it... whatever I did... very strange (why did this happen? I’m now afraid that they will turn off the light, and it will beep for 3 hours and I I can't turn it off

It is difficult to judge what happened from your words, there is too little information.

1. When you turned off the computer, did you try pressing the power button for more than 5 seconds (as indicated in Lesson 6)?
2. Does your computer (namely, the computer, not the UPS) turn on and off normally?
3. Leave the UPS turned on for several hours, then repeat the shutdown process (following the instructions from lesson six).

If something doesn't work as it should, please describe it. in detail your actions and results.

Hello, Sergey!
Recently, a technician and I were cleaning up my computer and he issued the following information: “Why are you turning off the power? The battery ((he probably meant the battery??)) is there in the BIOS, it could go bad...”
I power my computer, monitor, speakers (active) through an extension cord with 5 outlets with a switch. I finished the work, everything calmed down, I flipped the switch... and my soul felt so light)))) I can sleep peacefully)))
After shutting down the computer, I inspected the entire computer “equipment”, and I saw: the mouse was powered; monitor in stand-by, diode lights up; the indication on the keyboard lights up; and only the main block is blissfully resting (but I’m not entirely sure about this either).
In general, for now I continue to disconnect the power from the network with a switch on the extension cord. And doubts gnaw))))

Hello, Valery!

Indeed, the system unit does not rest when the computer is not disconnected from the network (by a button on the filter or a UPS button). Inside the system unit there is a standby voltage necessary to monitor the status of some devices (network card, modem). The power supply itself is, of course, also energized, although it consumes a little.

I myself I always turn off the computer completely(switch on the extension filter in front of the UPS). It’s really quieter and nothing blinks :)
In addition, in the event of a problem in the electrical network (lightning, inattentive electrician, etc.), the likelihood of damage to the computer and peripheral devices is minimal.

Regarding the battery powering the BIOS chip: This is not a battery, but a lithium battery type CR2032, its main task is to store settings in a microcircuit, service life is 3-6 years, costs less than 1 USD. Why save on it?

Good day, Sergey. I have this problem. Literally 5 days ago I purchased a new computer (Quadro AMD FX-4100(3?6)/4Gb/1Tb/ GeForce GTX 5500Ti/1Gb/DVDRW/CR/GLAN/Miditower). and everything was fine until I turned on one of the “heavy, large-scale” bugs (Dragon Age, Aion, etc.). The joy lasted for about 40 minutes, after which the computer suddenly began to reboot and in the process turned off completely and did not turn on for some time. And this happens every time you start such games, the rest of the time the computer is ideal. In the store where the computer was purchased, it was tested and certified The fact is that everything is fine with it. I didn’t take their word for it and took the computer to another computer shop for diagnostics (independent, so to speak), but the check there didn’t reveal anything, no errors, failures, overheating, etc. .the specialist who worked on my computer suggested that the problem was in my home electrical network. What would you recommend in this case? Is this really the problem? How to solve it? What kind of uninterruptible power supply (as I understand it, if the problem is in electricity, this is what you need will it be purchased?) need to be purchased (is it necessary? and will it help?), what power, etc. (and, if possible, not very expensive) I myself, as you probably already understood, don’t understand anything about this... I will be very grateful if you help me with good advice!

Hello Svetlana!
If the computer restarts and turns off only when running games, That I would check for overheating myself.

Perhaps the conditions during the test in the computer store were cooler than at your home. Is the system unit located near the battery, are the ventilation holes covered on the side (for example, by the side vertical surface of a computer desk or pressed against a sofa), etc.?

Run the program PC wizard(IT lesson 12 and 13), go to " Voltage, Temperature and Fans"and look at the temperature immediately after turning it on, and then compare with the processor and video adapter fully loaded. First of all, check the temperature of the video adapter.
If you make sure nothing gets hotter than 60-70 degrees, only then will it be possible to think about the power supply problem.

Check it out, then write me the result, then we’ll look into it in more detail.

Good afternoon,
I have a similar question with the waves on the monitor. Waves appear in the latest toys. But they don’t exist. If the monitor is disconnected from the UPS and plugged into the filter, everything immediately disappears, it seems, why do I need it then? The system is like this: 500W power supply. Video, processor, monitor and everything else in total no more than 300W at maximum loads. The uninterruptible power supply is Powercom BNT-1000AP (600W). I've already changed filters and all that - everything is the same, if the monitor is direct, then there are no waves.
Thanks in advance.

Hello, Alexander!
Vladimir solved a similar problem (which was described above in the comments) as follows:

“Most likely it’s an earthen loop. The ground, in addition to the power wire, also goes along the VGA cable - this creates a loop where there is too much dirt on the VGA cable screen. Under load, power consumption increases, a high current flows through the cable, and more current flows to the ground, which is why interference appears. When I plug it into different sockets, there is no loop, so everything is normal. I don't see any more reasons in this situation.

From all sockets in the surge protector. In our former USSR apartments, as a rule, there is no ground for ordinary outlets. If there was land, there would be no problems.
I took a tee without ground contacts, connected it to the UPS, and connected the cable from the monitor to the tee and the problem disappeared.
Now the PC and Monitor work from the UPS without any problems.”

In addition, pay attention to the type of cable that connects the monitor to the video adapter; if it is a VGA cable, then it is very susceptible to interference and it is better to place it away from the UPS and high-current lines. If possible, it is better to use a DVI cable.

Good evening, Sergey! Thank you for your answer! I did everything as you wrote.
The only change I made on my own initiative was to use a different surge protector for the computer itself (+ a different socket), everything else (monitor, speakers, desk lamp etc.) left it in the same place. Result: almost an hour and a half of play without reboots.

power-on data

<<>>
>
>> General information
ISA Address: 0x290
Config Mode: 0x290
Support: M5A78L-M LX3
>> Sensor Information
Sensor: ITE IT8712F
Mode: ISA (SuperIO LPC)
PECI Mode: No

>>Chassis Information

ICH Intrusion detected: No
> VIN1: 2.96 V
> Voltage +3.3V: 2.66 V
> Voltage +5V: 4.57 V
> Voltage +12V: 10.75 V
> +5V VCCH: 0.46 V
> VBAT: 2.21 V
>
>> General information
Support: M5A78L-M LX3
> Processor Voltage:
> Voltage: 1.375 V
> AMD processor FX: Sensor DTS
> Core 1: 255.9 °C
> Core 2: 255.9 °C
> Core 3: 255.9 °C
> Core 4: 255.9 °C
>
>> General information
> Temperature: 29 °C
> Temperature (GPU) : 29 °C
> Fan: 1020 rpm
> Fan: 30%
> Voltage: 0.950 V
>
> HDD ST31000524AS: 22 °C

data obtained during the game

<<>>
> Control chip: ITE IT8712F
>> General information
ISA Address: 0x290
Config Mode: 0x290
Support: M5A78L-M LX3
>> Sensor Information
Sensor: ITE IT8712F
Mode: ISA (SuperIO LPC)
PECI Mode: No
Q-Fan/SmartFan Allowed: No
>>Chassis Information
Sensor Intrusion detected: No
ICH Intrusion detected: No
> VIN1: 2.96 V
> Voltage +3.3V: 2.66 V
> Voltage +5V: 4.57 V
> Voltage +12V: 10.75 V
> +5V VCCH: 0.46 V
> VBAT: 2.21 V
> Control chip: Asus ATK0110
>> General information
Support: M5A78L-M LX3
> Processor Voltage:
> Voltage: 1.288 V
> AMD FX Processor: Sensor DTS
> Core 1: 255.9 °C
> Core 2: 255.9 °C
> Core 3: 255.9 °C
> Core 4: 255.9 °C
> NVIDIA GeForce GTX 550 Ti: nVidia Driver
>> General information
> Temperature: 56 °C
> Temperature (GPU) : 56 °C
> Fan: 1050 rpm
> Fan: 30%
> Voltage: 1.075 V
> Hard Disk Monitoring: S.M.A.R.T
> HDD ST31000524AS: 35 °C

maybe it was worth playing longer to make sure that there would be no reboot, but...
Could changing the socket and surge protector be a solution to the problem?

It is suspicious that the voltage is displayed as 10.75 V instead of +12V.

Go to the BIOS and check the readings in it (model motherboard You didn’t tell me, so I can’t name the exact section, you can look in the instructions or go to each section in turn).

Sergey, excuse me, it’s me again... nothing foreshadowed trouble... the games were not launched... the computer turned off and during the reboot process the following appeared:
4079 Mb OK (Installed Memory Size:4096 Mb)
USB Device (S)^: 4 Storage Devices
Auto-Detecting SATA 3G_3///IPE Hard Disk
Auto-Detecting SATA 3G_4 ATAPI CD-ROM
SATA 3G_3: ST 31000524AS JC4B Ultra DMA Mode - 6, S.M.A.R.T. Capable and Status on
SATA 3G_4: ATAPI iHAS122 with XL08 Ultra DMA Mode_5
Auto-Detecting USB Mass Storage Devices…
Device#01: Generetic_SD/MMC*HiSpeep*
Device#02: …Compact*HiSpeep*
Device#03: …SM/XP_Picture*HiSpeep*
Device#04: …MS/MS-Pro*HiSpeep*
04 USB mass storage devices found and configured
Power supply surges detected during the previous power on
ASUS Anti-Surge was triggered to protect system from unstable power supply unit
press F1 to run SETUP
Press F2 to load default values and continue

Can you help clarify the situation? Please!)

The phrase “Power supply surges detected during the previous power on” is translated as “Surges in supply voltage were detected during the previous power on.”
By pressing F1 you will go to BIOS settings, and pressing F2 will reset the BIOS settings and boot will continue.

To prevent the message “ASUS Anti-Surge was triggered to protect system from unstable power supply unit” from appearing during boot, you can disable the function Anti Surge in the Power section.

But this will not solve the problem.
1. You need to understand the supply voltages of the power supply (in my previous message I drew attention to the deviation from +12V)
2. Do the lights in your home flicker periodically? Do you know how much the voltage in the network differs from the specified 220 Volts?

Good evening, Sergey! I hasten to inform you how my misadventures with the new computer ended)
I was on a business trip for a little less than a month, upon returning from which I decided by hook or by crook to achieve justice and a solution to my problem. Once again I gave my computer for diagnostics, once again I was told that it was in perfect condition. and at that very moment, when one of the employees wanted to turn off my computer (and all this time it was working, they tested it repeatedly) and touched the place on the back panel where the power supply is located, this same employee received an electric shock (mildly, of course) and the computer began to reboot again , how did this happen at home. In general, the problem was, as you expected, in the power supply, something with the grounding)!
thank you very much for the advice))) and happy new year to you)

In computer technology, you can often find such intermittent problems.
I’m glad for you, Svetlana, that such an accident helped solve the problem on the spot :)

Sergey, greetings! Your opinion is interesting. The problem is the following: the system unit is powered from a surge protector. The voltage from the socket is 217-220 v. When you turn on the computer while loading Windows (that moment when the blue squares are running), for some reason these squares stop and the loading stops. It helps to disconnect the pilot from the power supply and then everything loads normally. What’s the problem???
and the second question: if the UPS has only one output, is it appropriate to use a surge protector at its output as a breeder?

Hello, Pavel!
Does your computer freeze every time you turn it on? Or maybe only after recovery from hibernation/standby mode?
Did I understand correctly that the “Reset” button does not help, only turning off the power helps?

Regarding the UPS, I would use a regular extension cord with several outlets (to avoid the possible influence of the filter circuits on the UPS output circuits). And if we are talking about choosing a UPS, then it is better to immediately buy a model with several outputs in order to avoid unnecessary adapters and extension cords (they potentially reduce electrical and fire safety).
- Yes, freezing occurs every time you turn it on. To avoid them, you have to turn off the network filter for a few seconds, after turning on the computer boots normally. Here’s such a primitive (
  - It is difficult to clearly determine what the problem is. It is necessary to conduct a detailed diagnosis.
    The first step would be to reset the BIOS settings to make sure they are not the cause. Then try turning off the computer (via the Start menu, not the power button), leaving the filter powered on, waiting 30 seconds (so that the HDD pancakes stop spinning), turning on the PC, and see if it boots without freezing. Remember the result.
    The second step, I would check the actual voltage values produced by the power supply (via the BIOS or using the PC Wizard program. It is advisable to check the voltages under different loads (CPU and video adapter). Deviations from standard voltages should be minimal.
    The third step would be to repeat the situation on a clean version of the OS of the same version (you will have to reinstall Windows or install it on a second HDD, if available). This step can be problematic, but it will significantly narrow your search.
    After these steps, it will be possible to draw the first conclusions.

Good evening, Seryozha! I decided not to wait until the warranty on the system unit, sealed for 2 years, expired and let the specialists clean it from dust and replace all the coolers with new ones. And immediately change, as you advised, the video card to Gifors 560ti DDR5 256-bit bus. And at the same time I change the power supply to a more powerful one because of the video card. But I have this question: my UPS is now running the computer, without power for 8 minutes. But will it hold up when I install this powerful video card and a 750 power supply unit, if it is 425 VA, i.e. 255 watts. I don’t want to change the UPS, it’s already expensive, 680 UAH or 2518 rubles. What do you advise? Sincerely, Ludmila.

Hello, Lyudmila.
Three months have passed since my analysis of upgrading your computer. The situation on the video adapter market has changed noticeably. The GeForce 5xx has been replaced by the 6xx series - more economical and less noisy. I advise you to pay attention to it. (If you have questions, it’s better in that topic).

Regarding the UPS:
We have already calculated the theoretical power consumption of your PC: with a new video card (if there is a 560 Ti) it will be about 340 Watts (maximum), and a monitor is also connected to the UPS.
You can take a chance, hoping that during a power outage (or long-term deviations from the normal voltage in the network), the computer will not consume the maximum possible power, but half... then the UPS, of course, will withstand it. It may be able to withstand short-term loads at higher power.
But I would not recommend using a UPS with a power of less than 400-450 Watts in this case.
I think it won’t be so difficult to sell your used uninterruptible power supply, and thus save on buying a new one.
- Good day, Seryozha! Thank you very much for the advice, I’ll think about what would be more profitable to do. We don’t have stores for used components, we’ll have to look for buyers for the UPS. Without replacing the UPS with a more powerful one, I don’t want to risk the new video card and power supply. If I don’t find a buyer, then it’s better in 1 year 4 months. sell the system unit along with the UPS and buy a new powerful modern gaming PC. I’ll definitely pay attention to the sixth series video card. Sincerely, Lyudmila

Hello, Sergey. I have a question. Can the system unit break down due to the fact that it has a UPS? The computer began to reboot many times and eventually stopped working. They said it was because of this.

Hello Tamara.
If there is incompatibility between the UPS and the computer’s power supply (this is mentioned in the lesson and comments), then during power surges the computer will indeed reboot. And such frequent reboots can lead to PC failure.
The same can happen if the UPS is faulty.
Have you been told what exactly failed inside the system unit?

Sergey, good evening, can you tell me? I took a Powercom BNT 800AP usb UPS, connected the system unit to one socket, and the LG LED E2242C monitor to the other through a surge protector for the UPS, the system unit works, but the monitor does not. What could be the reason?

Yuri, try swapping the cords (use the one to which the system unit is connected for the monitor).
There are also defects; there have even been cases where the length of the contacts in the connector is incorrect, and as a result the device does not work.

Hello. So far everything is clear. Thank you very much for the lesson. Please pay attention to this text. Here one word was repeated twice. (What would be more literate like mine :)

——— In one of the subsequent IT lessons (but at a higher level of training) we will look at why this is so and how to avoid this problem. If the question persists, then ask in the comments to this article, I will try to help. ———

word —— *lessons*

about the UPS - good stuff. But I have a laptop

Hello Dear Sergey There is such a problem
The neighbors started a major renovation with welding (Heating, gratings, an enclosure for the dog, and something else, plus a concrete mixer and other powerful tools and all this in the private sector) we are sitting on the same line with them; we can’t jump over to the second because there even worse “APPEARS THEY ARE BUILDING AN IRON BUNKER THERE”
and so from 17-00 to 22-00 I have a disco and at times the light just fades out for 5-10 seconds until the “Illich Bulb” mode, I measured the voltage during the decay for 10 seconds, it showed on the “Chinese tester” 170 - at times up to 116 volts and As a result, the computer turns off even though the TV is standing nearby No changes (apparently there is a different junction on the transformer)
There was an option to use Soviet stabilizers (for TV), but now the voltage has become even lower and it can’t cope
Today I freaked out and went to talk to my neighbors and remembered that My Neighbor (Another) sold her Computer and she still had the UPS, but it was there even before the sale of the computer for about a year
Its model is bnt 400a (manufacturer not specified) it is 210 watt maximum Connecting it did not give anything
I'm an electrician myself, but I've never encountered a UPS before.
An autopsy showed that the fuse on the Charging circuit was burned out (replaced) but the battery was dead because the measurements showed 3-5 volts. An attempt to charge it with a small current from the Car Battery Charger did not give anything after I pulled it out and saw a significant swelling and crack but leaks (Gel) didn’t notice But I still started it with the help of Yulok Power (Laboratory), but it (the Block) buzzed when starting, but after switching the circuit to “NETWORK” it stopped
There is an idea to connect a 60 ampere battery from a Car to it (they say it will help), but the charging current is confusing; it is 0-75 amperes. Will the battery plates be destroyed?
Or is it possible to use the UPS as a Stabilizer? ( This function available) and light the UPS from the Laboratory PSU???
Replacing the Battery immediately disappears because there is no money at all for the Scholarship and there is nothing to eat...
Bolshaya Porosba reply to E-mail because I’m writing from someone else’s computer (I have a disco with swings)

Stanislav, I sympathize with you. I encountered a similar situation when I lived in a private house and was saved by switching on the autotransformer and the UPS in series.

I have no experience with connecting a car battery to a UPS. Of course, the first thing you need to check is the consistency of the charging currents and the presence of the required voltage. On forums it is often advised to separate the charging and converter circuits because They come to the conclusion that the battery will not have time to charge and will fail as a result.

There are references to working systems “UPS + Car Battery” (example: http://forum.oszone.net/post-1323278-26.html), but before experimenting with connecting a car battery to a UPS, you should take into account the differences in the features of their use: http://www.1000va.ru/actual/?actual_id=10
- Do not be shy. File a complaint (by phone first) with the Electricity Networks Department and state your complaints. They should come and sort it out. In the end, as a consumer, you pay money for electricity, which must meet GOST requirements. For connecting the welding transformer to the lighting network in the evening and on weekends, they must insert a homemade wick.

Good evening, Seryozha! My Imperial line-interactive UPS began to hum, if the plug from it is in the socket, but it itself is turned off, a hum is heard. Battery charge 96 percent.

Lyudmila, in fact, a humming sound from a UPS that is plugged in but turned off with a button is relatively common. Sometimes this humming is very faintly audible, sometimes stronger.

If the sound in your case appears “suddenly” and is loud enough, then take it to service center, let them figure out what the problem is.

Good day, there was no time or opportunity to contact you Sergey. At first, I also didn’t have a grounding connection and had problems with the computer and the UPS, everything was solved! Now it works. There were modem failures due to overvoltage, but when, on the advice of one computer technician, I connected the modem via a UPS, a different picture emerged, although I had to make a mini socket for connection on the UPS itself (it’s a pity that all the connectors are not intended for the modem’s power supply).

Please tell me why the UPS (700 VA IPPON) gives short signals and turns off??? Connected through a surge protector. P.S. The house has an electric boiler.

Olga, there may be several reasons.
1. It is possible that the network voltage has been outside the permissible range for too long (too low or too high);
2. Maybe the battery has reached the end of its service life and it’s time to replace it;
3. The problem may also be in the load (what is connected to the UPS);
4. There is a possibility that the UPS itself has failed.
And these are not all the options.

There is not enough information to suggest more precisely, start by checking the first and third points.

The wiring in your house does not match the power of the electric boiler. It is necessary to immediately replace the wiring in the house using copper wires in accordance with the maximum power consumption (with a margin) and soldering joints made by twisting. You should also check the quality of the wiring from the meter to the power supply line (on the pole). Don't take risks.

I read the articles with pleasure, I can’t ask any questions, I just re-read the article and the answers to questions from other users if something is not clear. Thank you.

Hello, Sergey. When I'm not working with the computer, I turn off the uninterruptible power supply. I first turn on the uninterruptible power supply (APC Back-UPS 700), then the electrical appliances connected to it. Sometimes the appliance turns on normally. There are times when, when you turn on the device, the uninterruptible power supply starts to beep, and the lights on the connected devices blink dimly. Sometimes the squeaking and flashing continues for a couple of seconds, then the devices work normally. Sometimes an electrical crackle can be heard in devices when the power supply unit beeps. Simply On/Off helps in all situations. Then everything works fine. The described problems appear only during the initial startup of the uninterruptible power supply. What happens? Does the UPS need time to compensate for the lack of power during initial startup? And the main question: is an uninterruptible power supply capable of harming electrical appliances? All this flashing lights and electrical crackling bothers me.

I'm concerned about some of the "surge protectors" that many people have. They are more like simple extension cords. Having disassembled such a “surge filter”, you will not find anything in it that can protect equipment. The maximum that can be on such a sample is a thermal breaker and a switch. But there is no interference filtering unit at all. I've had good luck with my APC. For almost six years, it has served me as reliability. But I decided to buy a new one. Sergey, which one would you recommend to me? 🙂

Victor, with filters it’s really not that simple, and most of them are extension cords.
Even cost does not always indicate the quality of performance, for example:
The APC PF8VNT3-RS is one of the most expensive, but there have been complaints about the build quality in recent years.
APC PH6T3-IT also has controversial solutions, which are described in this review.
Energy Elite Most EHV (but not ER) seems to be a good scheme, but there are also complaints.
There are good reviews about Defender DFS 805 and Defender DFS-PRO5, but I haven’t found a full review or testing.
Inexpensive filters with minimal acceptable parameters filtration: SVEN Platinum PRO/SVEN Platinum/SVEN Gold (there are complaints about the build quality).

In short, I don’t know the ideal filter, I buy not the cheapest one with filtration circuits, disassemble it and look at the build quality, if necessary, I fix it or leave it as an extension cord.

I consider a UPS to be a mandatory protection for a computer.
- Thank you! 🙂 I chose Defender. 😀 And I already have a UPS. APC CS-500. Only it is not in working order. Makes beeps and hisses. At the same time, the “on battery” indicator flashes. Even if you disconnect the battery. There is no response to the Power button yet.

Hello Sergei! I wanted to describe my “uninterruptible power supply”. I have had it since 2010. After 3 years I changed the battery. Model: Back-UPS ES 525. I like it! Although it was a little expensive at the time, it pays for itself. 3 sockets and one. 3 are anti-interference and a battery, and one is only anti-interference. And this one socket always works even when I’m turned off. uninterruptible power supply with a button (I connected a landline telephone answering machine to this socket). There is even a wire connection to the COMPUTER. If there is any interference in the network, it beeps (and if the light is off, it beeps more often) I open the program and see what was in networks and when. And it also has landline phone protection. In short, it’s a cool uninterruptible power supply - I like it! THANK YOU!!!

Hello, Sergey. Will there be problems if 5-6 electrical appliances (20″ monitor, non-gaming system unit, speakers, table lamp, 40″ TV) are connected to one UPS output via a surge protector (with a plug for connecting to the UPS)?

Hello, Alexander. The main rule is not to exceed maximum power, for which the UPS is designed (or better yet, leave a margin of 20-30%). Add up the maximum power consumption of each device (usually indicated on the back on a special sticker), and compare with the maximum permissible power of the uninterruptible power supply.

Hello, Sergey! I also ask for advice.
I have a laptop on my desk, it’s been a Dell since 2008, now it’s an ASUS N56V. I treasure it. In 2008 I bought a Pover Cube PRO filter, it worked great - I always turn on the laptop in the morning and until the night, I turn it off only when I leave.
Recently his toggle switch got damaged, I tried to insert it myself -
hisses when turned on. I decided to replace it, I found Pilot GL in Eldorado,
It is 2 times more expensive than the Moscow one, it seemed normal to me. The store asked me to believe it and paid. At home I was afraid to turn it on, but everything was fine, I worked in the same conditions for a week, and yesterday when I turned it on there was a loud bang, like an explosion, fire and
smoke and turned off the machines for the whole apartment. I was afraid to turn them on - unexpectedly the filter gave me a short circuit and I had to wait for the electrician.
Today I discovered that in other stores this model is more than 2 times more expensive. I don’t know what to think. I read your article and decided to buy a UPS. I have a Defender RJ45/RJ11 on my TV, it has 2 free sockets, but I don’t want to load it. By the way, I don’t understand, does it need to change its batteries? It didn’t bother me, although the filters saved me, they turned off my light - the neighbors were doing European-quality renovations with redevelopment, the noise was incredible, I endured it, behind the wall, and others came and turned off all the machines in the panel, including mine. So my surge protectors saved my home, TV and laptop. What would YOU
did you advise? UPS without any filters? And which? So far I have a laptop directly, it was purchased, and a month later the model was discontinued, so I don’t know if it has overload protection, etc.

Hello, Allah!
A filter that caused a short circuit must be returned under warranty.
The batteries in the UPS have to be changed over time, but the service life depends on the quality of the battery and the UPS, see the website.
The UPS can be used without a filter, but the filter in front of it will not cause any harm.
Regarding recommendations: I have good experience with APC UPS, but Lately There are more complaints, you need to choose a model based on reviews/reviews (don’t chase the low price). Good reviews about APC Back-UPS CS 500VA, pay attention to the warranty, it should be 1-2 years.

Uninterruptible power supply systems are currently becoming very popular. It doesn’t matter where a modern person lives - in a city apartment, in a country house, various household appliances, digital computer equipment, and life support systems have become firmly established in his life.

Purpose and categories of UPS

The requirements for the quality of power supply for all these devices are increasing. The quality of power supply to external electrical networks does not always satisfy the population. Sharp voltage drops occur, both in the direction of decreasing and increasing its value. This has a very adverse effect on the operation of household equipment, and sometimes leads to its failure. Protect yourself from such troubles installation of uninterruptible power supplies helps, from which devices that are most sensitive to such sudden changes are powered.

Depending on the circuit solutions that determine the main characteristics of uninterruptible power supplies, they can be divided into several categories. Each of them ensures uninterrupted operation of a certain group of consumers.

Backup UPS

They can only protect simple home appliances and desktop computers.

If the mains voltage is normal, consumers are connected directly to it. When the voltage in the network fluctuates, the equipment switches to power from the battery, which is an integral part of the UPS. Noise and high-frequency impulses are partially suppressed, the voltage is maintained at a given level, and the battery is recharged. Stabilization of the mains voltage supplying equipment connected to its output is not carried out for uninterruptible power supplies of this category.

The need to switch to battery operation in each uninterruptible power supply model is determined differently. The limits of network operation are determined by the developer of this model. They are installed based on the conditions of normal functioning of the consumer equipment.

Battery operation will continue until the voltage in the network returns to normal. After this there is a switch to reverse side. The source battery must provide at least a five-minute reserve when operating from it. This is enough to save data on the computer and trouble-free shutdown of the consumer equipment.

The disadvantages of uninterruptible power supplies in this category include the following:

Lack of mains voltage stabilizer.
Long switching time (~20 ms).
Step form of output voltage.
Presence of high frequency interference.

Switching to autonomous power mode occurs at any slight deviation of the mains voltage parameters from the norm. This leads to rapid battery wear.

Linear interactive sources

Models in this category are equipped with network voltage stabilizers, which are made according to an autotransformer circuit. Switching of its windings, depending on the value of the input mains voltage, occurs stepwise according to the commands of the microprocessor built into the UPS circuit. Thus, it is possible to maintain a voltage at the output of the unit close to normal (220−230) V. Additionally, the circuit has a filter that protects the consumer from network interference.

Connecting the battery and disconnecting from the network occurs when the voltage parameters at the input of the unit go beyond the stabilization thresholds. The number of autotransformer terminals is not enough to maintain the rated voltage at the output. There are also tolerances on the shape of the input signal. For large distortions, a transition to battery mode power supply of consumer equipment.

The process of switching to battery power is fairly smooth for most consumers and takes no more than 4 ms.

Thus, Comparing sources of this category with backup UPSs, you can notice their advantages:

Mains voltage stabilization has a stepwise nature.
The output voltage shape is close to a sinusoid.
Network interference filtering.
Saving battery life due to fewer starts.

Ferroresonant power supplies

At their core, they are linear active sources. A ferroresonant transformer serves as a mains voltage stabilizer. It can store magnetic field energy, which maintains voltage in secondary winding transformer at switching moments. The transition process lasts no more than (8−16) ms. This is acceptable for most consumers. The voltage form at its output is sinusoidal, protected from network interference. The source performs its functions based on commands from its own network analysis and control unit.

Linear uninterruptible devices

Double conversion UPSs fall into this category. They include an AC-to-DC converter (rectifier) and a converter direct current to AC (inverter). The output voltage of the inverter is used to power the equipment connected as a load. The rectifier voltage is used to recharge the internal battery. It is included in the rectifier circuit and is constantly in active mode, which depends on the quality of the input AC voltage.

The positive qualities of a UPS in this category include:

Output voltage stability.
Possibility of replacing the battery without shutting down the UPS.

The disadvantages include:

Low coefficient useful action(efficiency).
Battery life is reduced due to constant operation.

Devices in this category are used to operate the equipment of large organizations whose servers store important data. They must be saved in case of any changes in the network and any disruptions in its operation.

Main characteristics

When purchasing a UPS, you must carefully understand the requirements for it. It is necessary to choose the model that best satisfies the “price - quality” criterion.

When choosing an uninterruptible power supply, great attention should be paid to comparing the characteristics different models. These include the following:

UPS power.
battery life.
switching time to battery operation and back.
range of input voltage changes.
limits for changing the network voltage frequency.

Power is calculated from the total load of the source. Its value should be at least one and a half times greater than the power of consumers. The optimal power of a unit installed in an apartment is considered to be 1000 VA (1000 volt-amperes).

The switching time directly depends on the size of the load connected to the this moment to the source output. The more current it consumes, the shorter the battery operating time. The capacity of the installed battery also determines the operating time.

Any UPS model has visual signaling elements. These can be light bulbs of various colors, LED indicators that determine the state of the uninterruptible power supply at the current moment.

Constantly lit green indicators are a sign of normal operation of the unit. If the LED operates in pulse mode (its intermittent glow), then problems are possible or have already arisen. This is a warning signal that attracts attention.

A constant glow of the red indicator indicates an emergency situation. Its occurrence is accompanied by warning sound signals in the form of intermittent beeps.

Operating rules

Correct operation of the equipment is the key to its long and reliable operation. The basic rules that must be followed when operating an uninterruptible power supply include:

The need to constantly monitor the light indication and sound alarm of the unit.
Connecting consumers that really require uninterruptible power.
Grounding the UPS using a socket with three sockets for connecting the device plug.

If there is a power outage, you must turn off all equipment that is turned on at that moment. It is advisable to leave the UPS plugged in for possible battery recharging after the network fault is resolved. Operating the unit with a discharged battery leads to its rapid failure. The battery life is limited and is no more than 5 years.

Compliance with these simple but necessary rules will extend the life of all equipment that requires uninterrupted power supply, and most importantly, it will preserve important information on computer hard drives, which could be irretrievably lost in the event of sudden malfunctions in electrical networks.

By purchasing a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) for personal computer or other household appliances, you solve many problems at once “in one fell swoop”. You will no longer have to constantly save it while working with a document, for fear of losing data due to a sudden power outage. Also, you now don’t have to worry at all that the power supply or, even worse, the hard drive will fail as a result of incorrect shutdown. If “trouble” happens, you can complete important work with the program within a few minutes and calmly turn off the computer. All this is due to the fact that the uninterruptible power supply almost instantly reacts to changes in indicators in the power grid and begins to work as a backup source of energy. The user's task is only to help the device perform its functions effectively. The service life of both the UPS itself and the consumers connected to it directly depends on responsible handling of equipment.

Commissioning

As a rule, when using new equipment, the preparatory stage is the most difficult. After all, you need to know as accurately as possible how to properly install and connect the device, what requirements must be met, and how to avoid mistakes. Before connecting your computer to an uninterruptible power supply, you must fulfill several very important conditions.

Under no circumstances should you turn on the device immediately after bringing it from outside. . It is especially important to follow this rule when the temperature outside is sub-zero. The “bespereboynik” must sit properly in the room, otherwise there is a possibility that condensation formed due to a sharp temperature change will cause a breakdown. Immediately before startup, the UPS must be dry. If it is severely frosty outside, the waiting time before turning on should be at least four hours.

Choose the most suitable location to install the device . The case of the uninterruptible power supply should not be located where it can be exposed to sunlight. Also, there should be no heating devices nearby, and the room itself should have a normal level of humidity. Install the device in such a way that nothing blocks the ventilation openings (they must have free access to air for effective cooling).

Carefully monitor the temperature regime . Most models of this type equipment, the recommended operating temperature range is from 0 to +40 °C (ideally, for stable operation of the device, the temperature should always be between +20 and + 25 °C).

Route wires carefully . The power connection cable and wires connecting the UPS to the load must be located in such a way that there is no tension and the possibility of accidentally touching them is eliminated. The power cable must be connected to a grounded outlet, as required by safety regulations.

Wait until the battery is well charged . Immediately after turning on the UPS for the first time, it will not be possible to work with the load fully; the diagnostic system will generate an error (in some cases, a message will pop up that the battery is faulty and requires replacement). This happens because new batteries are not charged, and therefore are not capable of supporting power to connected consumers. In order for the batteries to be fully charged, leave the UPS plugged in for a day, since the first charge takes longer than planned.

For some models of uninterruptible power supplies to work effectively, you need to install some software. The product should include a disc that can be easily installed by almost anyone. regular user PC. Many modern UPSs have a self-diagnosis system, which must be activated before the first start-up (after which the correct connection will be checked, as well as the proper functioning of the internal operating elements). In the event of any malfunction, for example, when the “phase” and “neutral” inputs are reversed or there is no grounding, the device will beep or display an error code. To immediately determine what’s wrong, carefully read the instructions before use, then all the signals will be clear to you, and you can quickly eliminate the error.

Connecting and operating the UPS with a load

Upon completion of the preparatory stage, you can start using the UPS by connecting the load to it. Let's give an example of a standard connection diagram for the efficient operation of computer equipment in domestic conditions: a UPS and a printer (or scanner) are connected to the surge protector, and the computer system unit and monitor are connected to the UPS itself. In principle, if there is a connector for a printer on the UPS panel, you can connect one to it, but only on the condition that it is an inkjet printer and its power consumption was initially included in the total load power when purchasing an uninterruptible power supply. Never even try to connect a laser printer, as it is much more powerful than an inkjet printer, and at the time of peak loads it can overload the UPS. Also you can't connect lighting and another household appliances, which is not in such dire need of protection during a power outage. The same can be said about the use of these devices. in offices: the load from all connected servers to one UPS should in no case exceed its capacity.

What are the consequences of large overloads? A large number of electricity consumers will certainly lead to an unjustified load on the uninterruptible power supply, and there may not be enough power to power the computer. It happens that the device simply “drops” the load, which causes an emergency shutdown of computer equipment and loss of data, and what’s even worse is that important working parts may break down (for a UPS it’s a battery, for a PC it’s a hard drive or power supply). Agree that additional repair costs will be an unpleasant surprise.

Correct compliance with permissible power loads guarantees that the uninterruptible power supply can effectively support the operation of computer equipment for the time declared by the manufacturer during power outages. You will have time to save important information to your hard drive or removable media and shut down correctly.

It should be noted that it is not recommended to use the entire reserve time to continue working at the computer. If it is possible to save the data earlier and turn it off, do so. Thus, you can preserve the battery capacity and reduce the load on the uninterruptible power supply. In general, experienced specialists advise using an uninterruptible power supply in conjunction with a generator for long-term operation without a central power supply: when the power goes out, the equipment will operate on the UPS for a few seconds, and then the load can be transferred to the electric generator without interrupting operation.

How to extend the life of a UPS?

Since the uninterruptible power supply basically ensures the operation of the equipment connected to it for a period of time from 10 to 20 minutes, the battery is subject to the greatest wear. On average, the service life of rechargeable batteries reaches 3 years with proper use. Although for “ON-LINE” type devices this period can be increased to 5 or even 10 years, thanks to modern technologies that allow more careful charging/discharging of the battery. Do not try to artificially extend the “life” of the battery by disassembling it and adding distilled water, as some people do, based on experience. car batteries. The UPS is equipped with special sealed or, as they are also called, maintenance-free rechargeable batteries. When the resource of such a battery is exhausted, it is necessary to replace the old one with a new one. However, there are several rules that, if followed, will help extend the life of your batteries.

№ 1. Avoid cases where switching to battery power is not justified. For example, a small power surge occurs and the entire load switches to battery operation. This may be due to the fact that the upper and lower transition thresholds are incorrectly configured. By changing them to the correct ones, based on the power grid indicators, at which the equipment will function stably, you can avoid increased load on the batteries. The adjustment is carried out either on the control panel or through a program installed on the computer.

№ 2. Be sure to ensure that the uninterruptible power supply does not overheat under any circumstances. For normal battery operation, the ambient temperature, including inside the device body, should not exceed 30 °C. Regardless of whether natural or forced cooling occurs during operation of the device, it must be as efficient as possible.

№ 3. Completely eliminate the possibility of mechanical impact on the device (shocks, falls, etc.). You need to install the UPS in a place where it will be stable and nothing will accidentally fall on it.

Many buyers ask themselves the following question: is it necessary to have a spare battery? This will only be justified if the uninterruptible power supply is used intensively and may need a backup battery charge. But if there is no such need, storing the battery for several years “just in case of fire” will not be rational - since it will already lose its performance properties.

As for the efficiency of the UPS as a whole, it largely depends on you. If you have carried out all the preparatory work correctly, followed the recommendations on operating conditions and promptly responded to signals from the diagnostic system, then you can be sure that the likelihood of breakdowns will be minimal. If a problem does occur that cannot be resolved using the methods described in the instructions, do not try to disassemble the uninterruptible power supply yourself. It is better to contact the service center, where you will be provided with qualified assistance with warranty and post-warranty service.

Uninterruptible power supply, UPS, UPS- as soon as they call this simple device capable of providing uninterrupted energy supply at sites of special importance. Such facilities primarily include nuclear energy enterprises, oil production and oil refining complexes and social infrastructure facilities.

Equally important is uninterrupted power supply and at home: effective work local computer networks and personal computers directly depend on electricity. In the event of a power outage or a complete shutdown, it will allow the computer to operate for a few more tens of minutes, which is enough to save the necessary data and safely shut down the computer.

It is clear that UPS prices for one computer and UPS prices for large production will differ from each other. Therefore, choosing UPS/UPS, you need to know about certain types of such devices.

Classification and types of UPS

Based on various parameters, UPS It is customary to divide it into several types. If we use power as the determining factor UPS, then among them there are devices of high, medium and low power. This or that power class is used for various purposes, and it is clear that using a power of several hundred watts will not be entirely appropriate for a single computer at home.

Another classifying parameter defining types UPS, it is generally accepted to consider the operating principle of uninterruptible power supply systems themselves. In this regard, the following categories are distinguished: UPS as online (on-line), offline (off-line) and linear-interactive (line-interactive).

Offline uninterruptable power source During normal operation, it provides connection to the main power supply. In emergency mode, the power is switched to backup sources, in this case to batteries. Main advantage UPS The offline type remains its ease of execution and unpretentiousness in operation.

Linear interactive UPS In addition to the switching device, they include an incoming voltage stabilizer. That is uninterruptable power source this type not only provides autonomous power supply devices during a power outage, but also protects against low or high voltage without a general switch to emergency mode.

Online uninterruptable power source built on the principle of double voltage conversion. The AC voltage received at the input is transformed into DC using a rectifier, and then becomes AC again using an inverter. All this helps to establish a stable level of output voltage, and also dampens interference from the main supply network.