Fluorescent lamps are much more economical than incandescent lamps, with the same power, their light output is several times greater. The service life of fluorescent lamps, they write, is 5 years, provided that the number of inclusions does not exceed more than 5 times a day. But, in practice, they nurse much less than 1-1.5, a maximum of 2 years.
In this article, we will consider specific model table fluorescent lamp - Delux - TF-01.
The design of the lamp itself is excellent: it is attached to the paradise of the table and does not take up space on the table, it has a good design, it has an oblong lampshade, which allows you to conveniently adjust the lighting on the computer desk without illuminating the monitor, for example, but only illuminating the keyboard. Economical, lamp power 11 W. But, in this lamp there is one very significant drawback - the lamps themselves do not burn for a long time, a maximum of six months. When they were still not so expensive (before the crisis in Ukraine), it was tolerable, but when the price increased several times, the expediency of using such a table lamp simply disappeared.
And so the idea arose to convert it to LED. In principle, this is not so difficult to do, LED panels are now sold in any Radio Parts store. But in order to power them, you need a constant voltage of 12 V, which means you need to make a 12 volt power supply.
There are 2 options for manufacturing such a power supply: limit the current with a high-voltage capacitor (400-600 V) to 200-300 mA, then convert the AC voltage to DC - straighten it, and then limit and stabilize it at 12 V. The PSU dimensions in this scenario are minimal and it would fit in the lamp shade housing. According to this scheme, industrial LED lamps are made, which look like an ordinary incandescent light bulb and are screwed into a standard cartridge. But, the big disadvantage of this scheme is that if some radio component of the power supply fails, the LEDs (panels) instantly break through and also fail (burn out), and they are expensive.
Therefore, it was decided to make a power supply using a step-down transformer according to the classical scheme. And by the way, in this case, you can easily adjust the output voltage. This is important so that the LEDs work in the nominal mode, do not overheat, then they will serve for a very long time, and 5, and 10 years, or more.
When altering a table fluorescent lamp - Delux - TF-01, 4 LED panels were used, each with a power of 0.3 W, i.e. in total, a 1.2 W LED lamp was obtained. At the same time, the light is excellent, it instantly lights up, and shines almost for free :)) We throw out all the old electronics from the lamp, or rather we disassemble it for spare parts.
The transformer picked up for 2 W, a bridge, a roll for 12 V (K142EN8B or KR142EN8B, or an imported analogue of a voltage regulator for 12 V - 7812) and a pair of capacitors. True, I had to tinker a little to assemble the LED panels into a block and fix the homemade LED lamp in the lampshade. I cut off a strip of fiberglass and fixed the panels on it with self-tapping screws, and then I attached this strip with the panels to the plastic racks, which I glued to the lampshade body with dichloroethane glue. Krenka, as you can see, put on a small radiator, for reliability. If some jumps appear in the network, the roll and capacitors smooth everything out.
In terms of money, such a lamp cost no more than buying a native fluorescent lamp, but it will last ten times longer.
Well, like this, you can tinker with the rework once and for 5-7 years, or even longer, not go to the store for new lamps and at the same time reduce electricity consumption by 10 times, compared with fluorescent lamps, and 60 or 75 times - compared to an incandescent lamp. Benefit in person...
I have been using this lamp for 2 years now, I am very satisfied.
Lighting is the most important component of the interior. The coziness and comfort level of our home depends on the lighting. The play of light and shadow allows you to beat the winning moments of the interior and divert attention from bad moments. And also - lamps, floor lamps, chandeliers and lamps create the atmosphere that we call "home". Unique lamps and The best way- make a lampshade with your own hands. Homemade plafonds and lampshades are the thing that will make your home stand out from the rest.
A few words about security
In the manufacture of lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers in industrial conditions, the minimum distance from the "body" of the lamp to the materials is preliminarily calculated. This distance depends on the power and thermal radiation of the lamp and on the type (combustibility) of the material from which the ceiling / lampshade is made. At home, hardly anyone will bother with such calculations. And in order not to create a dangerous situation, it is worth adhering to certain rules.
And in general, having made a lampshade and installing it, in the first few days, pay attention to whether the ceiling heats up. Heating is any increase in temperature above ambient. If the lampshade feels “warm”, change the light bulb to a less powerful one. Check again. So until the homemade lampshade warms up.
Where to get a frame
If you want to remake an old lamp, floor lamp, sconces in which the old lampshade has become unusable, you can simply use the existing base by peeling off the old material. Before starting work, inspect the frame well, if there is rust or a damaged coating somewhere, maybe it’s worth stripping everything off and painting it again? At the same time, the color can be changed. If there are no old frames, you can buy an inexpensive lamp (in a store or at a flea market) and do the same operations with it. Good lampshades can, by the way, be made from waste baskets. They are wire, there are plastic. The main thing is to find a suitable shape and size. Then make a hole in the bottom for the cartridge. Further - it's up to decoration / plating, and here there are a lot of options.
If this method is also not available, you can make a lampshade without a frame (there are some) or make a frame yourself. The material for making a frame for a lampshade with your own hands is: wire, wood (wooden or bamboo sticks, specially cut elements), plastic bottles.
How to make a frame for a homemade wire lampshade
The wire for the lamp frame needs aluminum or steel. Aluminum is easy to work with, but wrinkle easily. This is not very important when the lampshade is already in use, but this fact must be taken into account during operation: you can ruin the shape. On the other hand, such plasticity allows easy and simple changes in the shape during operation. So that's a good option. Aluminum wire can be "mined" from electrical cables. You will have to remove the protective shell and you can use it.
Steel wire is more elastic, so it retains its shape well. It can be found in the construction market. It's harder to work with her. It is desirable that there were strong male hands nearby.
In addition to the wire, you will need powerful wire cutters and pliers to work. The frame of the lampshade usually consists of two rings and racks connecting them. The shape of the future lampshade depends on the size of the rings and the shape of the racks. Questions may arise regarding the number of racks and how they are attached. The number of posts depends on the size of the rings and how "round" you want the lampshade to be. The more posts, the more “smoothly” the fabric will lie. So it's up to you to choose, but the optimal distance between the racks in the lower circle is about 5-6 cm.
Techniques for creating a frame for a wire lampshade
Methods for attaching the stack to the lampshade rings depend on the thickness and type of wire, as well as the tools you have. The easiest is to make a small hook at the end, then clamp it tightly. And so that the ring does not slide left and right, pre-treat the wire at the attachment point with sandpaper with a large grain. This is an option for thick aluminum wire. If the wire is steel, and with a diameter of 1.2-2 mm or more, the best way is. Thinner wire can be bent and wrapped around the ring or also made a hook.
If you make hooks, wind the wire, appearance it turns out far from being as perfect as that of factory frames. But this imperfection will be covered by the lampshade itself. If she still worries you, find a ribbon of a suitable color (usually matched to the color of the lampshade) and carefully wrap the resulting frame. It will get much better. The tape can be smeared with PVA glue and, wet, tightly, turn by turn, wrap the frame around.
wire mesh
If you can find a fine wire mesh, you can quickly make an almost perfect cylindrical shade for a floor lamp, table lamp, night lamp, candle shade, etc. All you need is to cut off a piece of mesh of the desired length and width, roll it into a ring and fasten the wires by wrapping them around the racks.
To prevent the mesh from straightening when cutting off a piece, cut so that long free ends remain on both sides. They will fasten the ceiling of a cylindrical shape. And the imperfection of the upper and lower rings can be masked with a tape of the desired color.
From a five-liter plastic bottle
An interesting shape lampshade can be obtained from a large plastic bottle. There are bottles of 5-6 liters and even 10. Here they can be used. From the container we cut off the top or the bottom - depending on what you like best. In the cut off part we make a ring for the cartridge. If the top is cut off, a neck can be used for some cartridges. For those with a larger diameter, it will have to be cut off.
Then we cut out the excess plastic, form the rims and racks of the ceiling. In order not to be mistaken, you can first draw all the lines with a marker. Cutting will be easier. Everything is elementary. Then we just decorate. And yes, it is necessary to cut out the plastic, otherwise the warm air will have nowhere to go.
We make lampshades on the frame
There are enough options on how to make a lampshade cover:
From tapes
The simplest and fast way transform an old lampshade for a floor lamp or table lamp - use ribbons. You need a frame or lampshade in the form of a cylinder. It can be "naked" or covered with fabric. If you use a "bare" frame, the light will break through the cracks, which will create interesting lighting effects, but the lighting will not be uniform. Reading in this light is inconvenient - this is an interior solution. If you need even lighting, cover the frame with fabric first. It can be the same color as the ribbon, a couple of tones darker or lighter, it can be contrasting. Everything depends on your desire. And remember that the darker the fabric, the less light the lampshade lets through.
We take a tape 1-2.5 cm wide. We fix it from the wrong side of the lampshade with PVA glue, additionally fixing it with a pin. If you took a wire frame without fabric, we attach it to the upper or lower rim (you can sew it on with your hands, you can use glue). Then we begin to wrap the entire frame, from top to bottom, placing the turns of the tape close to each other, but without overlap.
Having finished the circle, we unfold the tape 90 °. We fix it in this position (with a needle and thread or PVA glue, glue from a gun, temporarily fixing it with a pin, pressing it with a clothespin). Then we skip the tape under the first tape, pull it out, lay it on top of the second one, then pull it down again, pull it up through one tape. So, gradually, we create an interlacing, filling the entire lampshade.
Alternatively, you can skip two vertical tapes. But then you need to make sure that each next row moves one crossbar. Then you get a different type of weave. Such a lampshade is ideal for floor lamps, since it will direct the light downwards, scattering through the walls will be small.
In this version, the ribbons can be the same, they can be of the same color, but of a different texture, they can differ by a couple of tones or be contrasting. In a circle, the tapes can be started all the way, or you can - after a certain distance. If you find a wide tape and apply it with an overlap, then horizontal ones will not be needed at all. And if you use a braided or twisted cord (in the lower photo on the right), we get a completely different lampshade in appearance. So only this technique of finishing the lampshade gives a lot of options.
Let's briefly present the ideas. There are many options for how you can design standard frames for lampshades in a non-standard way. The first method has already been voiced: you can knit a lampshade cover on knitting needles or crochet. Several options in the photo.
Not everyone knows how to knit. It is easier to work with beads, especially if you glue them. You can decorate an old fabric with beads, sequins, beads of various shapes and sizes. You can make such a “new-old” lampshade with your own hands in a couple of hours. You select the decorations that match the color, coat the fabric with PVA glue, stick the decorations. To complete the look, you can assemble pendants from beads and beads that are attached to the lower rim, but this is already painstaking work. Although the effect is interesting.
You can sew a new lampshade out of fabric. But it is not necessary to make it an updated copy of the old one. Fantasy must be turned on! If the lamp or floor lamp is in the girls' room, a new cover for the lampshade can be made in the form of a skirt. The style of the skirt is up to you. Interesting look in the fold. With and without ruffles.
In the boy's room, you can use an old geographical map. They are on thick paper. If the paper is not thick enough, first you need to stick the card on cardboard, and then glue the lampshade from such a blank.
Original shades are obtained if the finished frame is braided with threads or ropes. Ropes can be natural. In this case, they are gray, brown beige. You can find thin synthetic colored cords. Of these, more "fun" in color products will turn out. The situation is even simpler with knitting threads. They are thin, thick, textured, with a smoothly changing color. In general, there are a lot of options.
We take the frame and braid it according to a certain pattern. You can start with racks. Braid each rack with a pigtail (the length of the threads should be 3 times the height of the rack). When this work is finished, we begin to stretch the threads / ropes between the racks. They will need to be passed through pigtails, so it is more convenient to do this with threads with a needle, and the ropes can be pushed through like that.
The second option is to first entangle the entire frame horizontally, and then braid the racks. A pigtail will no longer work here, you just need to fix the turns on the rack with oblique stitches with a certain slope. This version is somewhat simpler in execution, but the “pigtails” look more decorative.
Homemade ceiling lamps without a frame
Many materials are rigid enough to hold their shape on their own, yet malleable enough to be made into something interesting. There are a lot of such homemade lampshades. And almost all of them are worth your attention. We give here only a part, the other part will go in the photo section (see below).
From knitted lace doilies
Many people have crocheted napkins and they lie in the “stash”, because it’s a pity to throw it away and they don’t know how to use it. There is a very interesting idea - to make a lampshade for a hanging chandelier out of them. In addition to napkins, you will need a large balloon or an inflatable ball, glue for heavy wallpaper (vinyl, silkscreen, etc.), a brush.
We soak the glue according to the instructions, wait until it swells. Inflate a balloon or take a ball, hang it up. When the glue is ready, lay out a napkin on some clean surface, coat it with glue, put it on a ball.
It is necessary to lay out with such a condition that in the center there will be a hole for the cartridge. Glue the napkins one by one. They need to be laid out so that the edges overlap slightly. When all the napkins are laid, once again coat them with glue and leave to dry. When the glue is dry, blow off the ball or ball (the ball can be pierced if you don't mind) and take it out through the hole. That's all, the lace lampshade is ready.
In some cases, there are problems with how to hang the finished lampshade on the cartridge. The problem is solved simply - take a transparent plastic bottle, cut off its neck, if necessary, expand the hole to the desired size (so that it fits tightly on the cartridge), then cut off the plastic so that you get a ring 5-7 cm wide. Lubricate this ring with PVA glue , and glue it to the lampshade from the inside of the ball.
Round plafonds made of threads
Almost the same technology can be used to make round and semicircular stylish shades. Choose the thread of the right color. Their composition is absolutely unimportant - the color, thickness and texture are important. They can be shaggy, smooth, twisted, thinner and thicker. It depends on the appearance. It is most convenient to work with cotton threads of medium thickness. They absorb glue well and then, after drying, keep their shape perfectly.
You will also need a ball or ball. This will be the base of the lampshade, which sets the shape. Choose the size of the base as you wish. The threads will need to be glued, for this you need PVA glue. It is poured into a container, diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1.
You can use other glue. It is important that it becomes transparent after drying. These are WB-29 from TYTAN Professional and D2 joinery adhesive. If you use any of these types of glue, read the instructions.
On the ball or ball, draw a circle, which will be slightly smaller in size than the lamp socket. On the opposite side, draw a larger circle - this will be the lower edge of the ceiling. Now everything is ready, we can start.
We coat the threads with glue and wind them around the ball in a chaotic manner. It is more convenient to do this if the glue is poured into a container - you can lower the entire skein there, and just pull the thread slowly. With glue in a tube, everything is not so comfortable: you have to coat sections up to a meter long, rewind, coat again. Time goes much longer. This is if you do not use PVA. But on the other hand, the products turn out to be more rigid and do not sag, do not change shape over time, as can happen with filament lampshades on PVA.
When winding threads around the ball, we carefully go around the drawn circles. If you accidentally climbed into the "forbidden territory", we simply move the threads, forming an even (more or less even) edge. When the threads run out or you decide that there is enough density, the process can be stopped. We fill the edge of the thread between others. All. Then we coat the ball with wound threads again with glue (PVA can be watered) and leave to dry (at least 2 days). To prevent the ball from rolling, we find a bowl or pan and use it as a stand.
The last stage is to blow off the ball or ball. If the ball has a nipple, press it with a thin wire, releasing air. Take out the dropped ball. That's all, you can thread the lamp inside and test the lampshade.
The technology is the same, but the appearance is very different…
According to the technology described above, it is possible to make not only round shades. Rectangular, triangular, trapezoidal. Choose a base that is easy to remove, wrap threads soaked in glue, braid, even sticks, newspaper tubes, etc. After drying, remove the base and, behold, you have made a lampshade with your own hands. A couple of examples in the photo below.
You can also use chopsticks... Just wrap the ball with cling film too and use not PVA glue, but transparent carpentry
This is a paste-like polymer clay in a tube that was applied to a milk carton, then dried and the bag was removed ...
Creative homemade shades for lamps, floor lamps and chandeliers
You just wonder what people don’t make beautiful and unusual things from. Plafond from a cup, grater, bottle, beer or glass can, metal parts and beer can rings ... It seems that everything can be used ...
Lampshade from an old sieve ... stylish
Candlesticks turn into lamps ... without lampshades
You can’t tell in life, but these shades are made of hooks used to open metal cans for drinks and canned food… if they are painted, it will be even more interesting
Don't know what to do with grandma's crystal? Make plafonds out of it ...
The modern small-sized table lamp shown in the photograph, with a light source in the form of a fluorescent U-shaped compact lamp, worked for several years and failed.
According to the owner of the table lamp, Lately when the lamp was still working, an unpleasant smell was coming from its base.
Opening the base of the lamp immediately showed what the malfunction was. Insulation burned in one of the windings of the ballast device. Obviously, due to overheating or poor quality of the insulation of the winding wire of the coil, a short circuit occurred between the turns, which provoked the heating of the winding to a high temperature and the final failure of the ballast device.
I didn’t want to bother with rewinding the coils, and it’s almost impossible to find a ready-made ballast device for replacement, especially since its type was unknown. Therefore, I decided to remake the table lamp in a modern way - to install LEDs instead of a fluorescent lamp, and replace the ballast device with an electronic driver, especially since everything was at hand for such a remake.
Replacing a fluorescent lamp with LEDs
There was a long and narrow printed circuit board with LEDs from a linear LED lamp.
The driver in it burned out and melted the body-tube from heating. Therefore, the linear lamp was not subject to repair, and the diodes were serviceable. In width, the bar with LEDs just fit well into the reflector of the table lamp.
The luminescent U-shaped tube was held in the reflector by a plastic retainer and a plinth. To determine the required length of the LED strip, the lamp with the base had to be removed. In order to get to the base of the fluorescent lamp, I had to unscrew one screw and remove the fixing bar.
The base did not have an additional fastening, and to remove it, it remained only to unsolder the two supply wires. The wires were stranded of sufficient cross section, so I decided to leave them to supply voltage to the LEDs.
After fitting and determining the length of the LED strip, a piece of the required length was sawn off with a jigsaw. The LEDs on the bar are placed diagonally, so I had to cut with a jigsaw.
The cutting line passed in the right place, the printed tracks connecting the LEDs remained intact.
The existing table lamp reflector fasteners were used to mount the LED bar. The fluorescent lamp was fixed with a plastic bracket screwed to the reflector with a self-tapping screw, and the fixing cover was screwed to the plastic stand.
In the bar between the LEDs, a hole with a diameter of 3 mm was drilled for a self-tapping screw and a sample was made for mounting to the rack. After checking the alignment of the mounting hole with the hole in the short rack, you can proceed to fix the bar with LEDs in the reflector.
Before the final installation of the bar with LEDs in the reflector, it is necessary to solder the wires to the pads on it. One of the wires was short, and it had to be increased by soldering and an insulating cambric was put on the junction. Since the wires were of the same color, after testing with a multimeter, the positive wire was marked on both sides with white cambric rings put on.
I used a pre-made PCB with LEDs. But such a board is easy to do with your own hands. Moreover, if you use modern single-watt LEDs, for example LED-SMD5730-1, then it is enough to solder only 3-5 pieces. You can also use an LED strip glued to a metal strip as a light source instead of individual LEDs. You will have to select a driver in each case individually.
The photo clearly shows how the printed circuit board with the LEDs installed on it is fixed in the reflector of the table lamp. In order for the bar to be removed from the bottom of the reflector at the long rack (photo on the left), a cambric was put on it, equal height right short strut.
Before fixing the LEDs in the reflector, they were tested by connecting to the driver. The current consumption was also measured. The photo shows a reflector with LEDs installed in it. It remains to attach the fixing cover, having previously put a piece of cambric on the protruding stand for its entire length. Thus, sandwiched between two pieces of tubes, the left edge of the bar will also be securely fixed.
Selection and wiring diagram of the driver
To supply voltage to the LEDs, a transformerless driver was used from a faulty led lamp E27, assembled according to the classic electrical circuit diagram.
In the photo you see the wiring to the driver. The black wires coming from the LED board are soldered to the positive and negative outputs of the driver. With the help of blue and yellow wires, a 220 V supply voltage is supplied to the driver.
Electrical circuit diagram driver is above. Capacitor C1 with a capacity of 0.8 uF limits the current to 57 mA. R1 and R3 limit the inrush current due to the charge of the capacitors at the moment the driver is connected to the network. The diode bridge VD1-VD4 rectifies the voltage, and the electrolytic capacitor C2 smoothes the ripple so that the LEDs do not blink at the mains frequency. A safety element is also installed in the driver circuit, most likely it is a barter, it smooths out current surges and at the same time is a fuse. If it is necessary to reduce or increase the supply current of the LEDs, then it will be necessary to reduce or increase the capacitance of the capacitor C1 accordingly. You can increase C1 even without soldering it out of the board, by soldering an additional capacitor in parallel to its terminals. When capacitors are connected in parallel, the total capacitance is equal to the sum of their capacitances, that is, it will increase and the current will also increase.
The constant current, which ensures the optimal brightness of the glow of the LEDs used, is 20 mA. LEDs on printed circuit board three are connected in parallel. Therefore, the current required for their operation according to such a switching circuit should be 60 mA. As you know, for long-term operation of LEDs, it is better that the flowing current is slightly less than the rated current. Therefore, the 57 mA current provided by the driver satisfies this requirement.
There were 60 LEDs on the bar. The measured voltage drop across each triad of LEDs was 2.48 V. Thus, the power consumed by the LEDs was 2.48 V × 20 pcs. × 0.057 A \u003d 2.8 W, which is equivalent to the glow power of an incandescent light bulb of 25 W. The generated illumination of a table lamp is quite sufficient when used as a standby light, night lamp, computer keyboard backlight or reading an e-book.
The weight of the driver is insignificant and therefore I did not fasten it rigidly, I simply grabbed it with a flexible plastic clamp by one of the racks for attaching the halves of the base. The standard table lamp switch was used as a switch. To complete the alteration of the table lamp, it remains only to fasten its base together with three self-tapping screws, and it will be possible to proceed with sea trials.
Table lamp tests showed good results. Thanks to the ability to tilt the stand and rotate the reflector in two planes, the table lamp allows you to direct the light flux to the desired lighting area.
The alteration allowed not only to restore the table lamp to working capacity at no cost, but also turned the obsolete table lamp into a modern lamp with low energy consumption.
Probably at least once, but you have seen just such a table lamp, more often, such designs are used in manipulations in beauty salons.
However, in ordinary home life, such a lamp is very convenient.
Since I spend enough time at my laptop, I had to have such lighting on a rather long tripod. Only I do not consider the cold white CW light emitted by it to be comfortable. The lamp worked for me for more than a year, and I began to suspect that soon the life of the fluorescent lamp would come to an end, and I ordered a coil of LED strip in advance.
The tape arrived, and I just had to wait for the lamp to burn out - which happened a few days later.
I suggest that you look with me at such an option for redesigning the design on:
- its use with LED strip;
- think (and implement) about what new qualities this lamp can acquire;
- slightly repair the reflector rotation unit;
- to dream about what else could, if desired, be added to an already finished lamp.
Disassembly.
It was not difficult - it is always easier to disassemble. Pay attention to the massive choke that was hidden in the cubic cavity of the vertical rotary assembly of the luminaire rod system. I got rid of it, but of course I did not throw it away. 
In the base of the lamp, a plastic container was found with cement poured into it, which pleasantly surprised me - I expected to find a bag of sand. Of course, this weighting agent will have to be replaced with something. Looking ahead, I’ll say that at that time, I was leaning towards the sand, but a replacement was found. 
The coil itself with tape on 2835 LEDs. The choice was not random. I did not want too much power (brightness), since I would have to think about removing significant heat. I also didn’t want to complicate the designs by dimming - because I don’t like long-term ones. And the tape must be WW - a warm white glow. In general, I bought exactly what I wanted. 
The tape was cut into 8 pieces, and glued with a sticky layer to the standard reflector.
Then I became discouraged, realizing that how much I would have to solder ... 
After cutting off a suitable piece of the circuit board, I prepared and irradiated 16 conductors. In this case, a group of eight conductors was located in the center of the circuit board and was defined as positive conductors, and two groups of four conductors were intended to be connected to the negative pole of the power source. 
To my joy, it soldered very easily, and literally after 7 minutes, I already had a ready-made version. 
And 
I put the handkerchief itself on hot glue, and checked the operation at reduced voltage, - I was pleased with the result. 
Power supply and stand.
I decided to place it in a stand. Just one such, quite overall, I had nothing to do. And again, looking ahead, I will say that - this placement of the power supply is not the only one. 
Since I could no longer place a regular weighting agent, I was about to grab a plastic bag with sand, but I remembered that six years ago I was engaged in casting half-rings of weighting agents from lead and fled to my magical shed. In the same shed, I also came across a rubber ball pierced by me from mine. 
The half-rings were flattened on the anvil, because, in height, they interfered with the assembly of the base of the lamp, and were wrapped in halves from a deflated ball - it turned out tight, tight and elastic. =) 
Yes, pay attention to the piece of twisted cord - it was soldered at one end to 12v from the power supply, passed through the hole on reverse side stands. At its other end, a plug was soldered for connecting to a reciprocal socket, which I placed in an empty cubic cavity left after removing the inductor. 
The general view is like this 
Minor repairs.
After a year of operation, the head of the lamp with a reflector is no longer fixed in horizontal position. In other words, if the head of the lamp is turned at an angle to the upper link of the lamp leg, the swivel assembly could not bear the weight of the head, and the head itself fell down.
This, of course, was to blame for the weight of the fluorescent light bulb. And although the weight of the entire lamp assembly has significantly decreased, this problem remains.
It was impossible to disassemble this knot, and I just bit off the plastic ebbs of the knot strut, and screwed a self-tapping screw between the springy petals.
Everyone who came across a lamp of this type must have come across this defect of the rotary assembly - you will figure it out =) 
And 
Touch control.
Look down the photos, you can see the pink USB light on a flexible leg, it is touch sensitive. These lamps, I scored five pieces a few years ago at fifty cents for one.
In general, I gave three, and left two. The LEDs in one of them have lost their brightness, this is especially noticeable in comparison with the new one.
Inside the lamp are hidden:
- chip TPP223;
- field N (corrected, for which - thanks) channel transistor SI2302;
- three LEDs;
- and SMD strapping all of this. 
This is a ready-made control scheme, and I could not help being seduced by it.
The only thing I applied to the TPP223 was from the integrated 3.3v stabilizer. I knocked off two LEDs from the board, and left the last one for debugging. I put low-resistance resistors for the sake of experiment, then, I removed them.
The total current was less than one ampere =) 
What could be done differently.
As you can see, I used an overall power supply - but it was like that.
You also saw that the cubic cavity that housed the choke was left empty. If you have a small-sized 12v power supply at hand, then it is better to place it there. Then, in the stand, you can place the coils wireless charging, they just beg for it there, and for the detachable connection of the stand and the power supply, you can use the same trick that I used =)
PS
I did not know that this type of lamps are quite common among readers =))
A snippet of the video is available at
I bought 10W 900lm warm white LEDs for trial on AliExpress. The price in November 2015 was 23 rubles apiece. The order came in a standard bag, I checked everything is working. 
To power LEDs in lighting devices, special blocks are used - electronic drivers, which are converters that stabilize the current, and not the voltage at their output. But since the drivers for them (also ordered on AliExpreess) were still on the way, I decided to power them from the ballast from energy-saving lamps. I had several of these faulty lamps. whose filament burned out in the bulb. As a rule, for such lamps, the voltage converter is working, and it can be used as a switching power supply or LED driver.
We disassemble the fluorescent lamp. 
For rework, I took a 20 W lamp, the choke of which can easily give 20 W to the load. For a 10W LED, no further modifications are required. If you plan to power a more powerful LED, you need to take a converter from a more powerful lamp, or install a choke with a large core.
I installed jumpers in the lamp ignition circuit. 
I wound 18 turns of enameled wire on the inductor, solder the conclusions of the wound winding to the diode bridge, apply mains voltage to the lamp and measure the output voltage. In my case, the unit gave out 9.7V. I connected the LED through an ammeter, which showed a current of 0.83A passing through the LED. My LED has a working current of 900mA, but I reduced the current to increase the resource. I assembled a diode bridge on the board in a hinged way.
Alteration scheme. 
The LED was installed on thermal paste on the metal shade of an old table lamp. 
I installed the power board and the diode bridge in the body of the table lamp. 
When working for about an hour, the temperature of the LED is 40 degrees. 
On the eye, the illumination is like from a 100 watt incandescent lamp. 
