Many modern professional and semi-professional digital cameras allow you to save images in RAW format. This standard differs significantly from the more popular JPEG format. RAW data is “pure” information received by the camera from the light sensor. Due to the fact that RAW images contain redundant information, without compression and corresponding losses, the chances of correcting a photo taken in this format are much greater than in the case of a JPEG image.
⇡ What is RAW?
To understand what the “raw information” embedded in this format means, you need to imagine the operating principle of the main element of the camera - the photosensitive matrix.
The photosensitive matrix of a conventional camera is an array of photocells. Each element of such a matrix is used to convert light energy into electrical energy. The more sensor elements on the matrix, the theoretically higher its resolution. They all work synchronously, but each photocell in the camera matrix captures its own region of the spectrum.
The order of arrangement of photodiodes that record a particular color, in most cases, is subject to an algorithm called the Bayer filter. This is the most popular arrangement of photocells, which uses three color components: red, blue and green. They are arranged in such a way that a square is formed with two green sensors and one each of red and blue.
As a result, when creating a photograph, you get a color mosaic image consisting of three combined single-color pictures. To get a full-fledged image, the camera processor applies an approximation filter on the fly, which eliminates color artifacts and “fills in” the missing image details. The lack of color information is compensated by an average value calculated based on data from neighboring color cells. The RAW format allows you to intercept the data stream even before applying the approximation filter.
By and large, it is incorrect to say whether a particular camera supports the RAW standard. All cameras use the same way of describing visual information, based on the calculation of the Bayer algorithm ( except that some cameras use a slightly different pixel grid. — approx. ed. ). However, not all cameras are capable of storing raw data, which we call RAW files. In the material “CHDK: the second youth of digital, or what is your Canon hiding?” We have already told site readers about the alternative CHDK firmware for Canon cameras. This program allows you to save pictures in RAW format to a memory card, even in cheap cameras that do not provide such a function. Therefore, if you want to “touch” RAW photos, but are not yet ready to exchange your IXUS or PowerShot for a more expensive model, be sure to pay attention to the capabilities of CHDK.
But it is worth keeping in mind that when shooting in RAW using CHDK, optical distortions due to the characteristics of the camera lens remain uncompensated. RAW converters usually have profiles for suppressing various types of distortion, but they are tied to specific models lenses. It is clear that in the list of preset profiles you will not find templates for budget cameras that should not be able to shoot in RAW. Therefore, distortion will have to be suppressed manually, by eye.
⇡ Advantages and disadvantages of RAW
The RAW format has its advantages and disadvantages. First, about the shortcomings. Firstly, as mentioned above, such files contain redundant information, so their size is much larger compared to other standards. So, for example, with an image size of 2 MB in JPG format, a similar DNG (file in Adobe's open RAW format) can occupy 19 MB. It is clear that with the active work of a photographer who saves RAW photographs in good resolution, the volume of even the most big map Memory quickly runs out.
Another disadvantage of RAW files follows from the first. The large volume of recorded data interferes with high-speed continuous shooting. The device simply does not have time to record the saved data, and the number of frames recorded by the camera per unit of time is noticeably reduced compared to high-speed shooting in JPG. In addition, saving data in RAW uses additional hardware power, since the application needs to allocate more random access memory for processing redundant data.
It's also worth keeping in mind that many digital camera manufacturers use their own RAW specifications. Because of this, many incompatible formats were born. One of possible solutions confusion with formats - the use of the universal Digital Negative (DNG) format from Adobe, which is positioned as an open standard. There are now cameras that save images directly to DNG. In addition, to convert to this format you can use special converters, for example Adobe DNG Converter.
The advantages of RAW to a certain extent compensate for its disadvantages. And RAW photos have a lot of advantages. Firstly, this format allows you to restore exposure because dynamic range wider than in the case of JPG. Moreover, setting up insufficient or excessive exposure in the case of RAW is not just “pulling out” dark or overexposed areas.
Actually, if there is a white light on the JPG, then if the brightness is reduced, the details will not appear on it - there is simply no information to restore the image in this white spot. Another thing is RAW. For a “raw” photo, adjusting the exposure comes down to choosing a new shutter speed. The result of this correction is almost always excellent - as if you took a photo and guessed exactly what the shutter time should be set.
The second important advantage of RAW is the large depth of the color palette. It gives the photographer a chance to better adjust the color rendition. It is also convenient to correct lens distortion on RAW photographs, combat noise, use alternative approaches to eliminating Bayer mosaics, and so on. But all these advantages become obvious only in cases where you use good editor. Let's look at some of them.
⇡ Adobe Camera RAW 7
Adobe Camera RAW- This is a classic option for processing images in a “raw” format. The popularity of this tool is clear and obvious - the Adobe Camera RAW module is included in the package Adobe Photoshop, and almost everyone who is seriously involved in photography has this graphic editor. Despite the fact that Adobe Camera RAW can only be opened when Photoshop is running, the module makes it possible to process images and save them in JPEG, TIFF or PSD directly, without resorting to Photoshop tools.
Adobe Camera RAW is quite handy tool, which includes many useful settings. For the selection required parameters You can spend more than one hour looking at images. Perhaps the most important advantage of the module is that all edits that are made to an image can be easily undone, even if the RAW file was closed and then reopened. Non-destructive editing applies to all Adobe Camera RAW tools, including cropping and straightening.
One of the most popular instruments Adobe Camera RAW is an adjustment brush designed for selective photo editing. It is used to indicate areas that need to be adjusted - correct exposure, increase color saturation, select hue temperature, set white balance, etc. In this case, the maximum is involved convenient way selection - using automatic creation masks. The module itself determines the areas that need to be edited. For example, if you want to make the sky in the gaps between tree branches bluer, you just need to go over them with an adjustment brush without worrying about hitting the branches - the program will not change the exposure for the trees.
Adobe Camera RAW also has a custom gradient filter - a tool that can be used in cases where the photo is partially darkened or overexposed. It is also convenient to use for landscapes, where it is often necessary to color the sky in certain shades of midtones.
Although Photoshop has a red-eye removal tool, Adobe's RAW module has a similar feature. If we take into account more correct operation With color, it seems to us more logical to eliminate such a defect at the stage of correcting the RAW image than leaving this little detail for later.
For many settings, Adobe Camera RAW automatically selects the best values. And the most successful user settings can be saved as presets and exchanged with other users (presets are .xmp files that are stored in the folder C:\Users\Username\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRAW\Settings\). There is also a function to save versions of images. In fact, these are the same saved sets of settings that are available only for the current photo.
Adobe Camera RAW can also be used for batch processing of files. Batch processing can be carried out both in the module interface itself (to do this, just open several RAW files at the same time), and with regular using Adobe Photoshop. For example, creating scripts (actions) and using droplets. When processing a group of files using Adobe Camera RAW, selected settings are synchronized. When this option is enabled, any changes made to one of the synced photos are automatically duplicated to all other photos in the group.
⇡ RAW Therapee 4.0.9 - free RAW converter
RAW format Lately Even those who used to carry a cheap digital point-and-shoot camera are no longer afraid. Support for this standard can be seen not only in top cameras, but also in relatively inexpensive models. However, despite the growing popularity of “correct” photo processing, the price of tools for working with RAW is still high. For example, the same Adobe Lightroom costs $149.
It’s all the more pleasant to discover, among expensive applications, a free solution for professional image processing RAW Therapee. This program can be used not only on Windows, but also on Linux, as well as on Mac computers.
The RAW Therapee interface is Russified, but the localization is not ideal - many program items are left in English.
The first thing I would like to note is: high speed RAW image processing. The program engine (developed by Hungarian programmer Gábor Horváth and a team of like-minded people) supports multithreading algorithms, so any changes to settings are instantly displayed in the preview window.
In the process of adjusting the image, it is convenient to use the “Before and After” display option, when in the preview window the final image is shown next to the picture before making exposure changes or corrections color balance, suppressing distortion, noise and adjusting other parameters.
A file browser is integrated into the program. Like Lightroom, RAW Therapee scans the media and shows its contents. The built-in viewer allows you to set a rating for pictures. Quick command context menu You can send pictures to a queue for batch processing.
The speed of the RAW converter is noticeable mainly when processing data, but when performing operations with files, the application often slows down. Contrary to the developers' claims that the program quickly generates thumbnails, when we first launched RAW Therapee we had to wait quite a long time until all the photos on the memory card were indexed.
One of the advantages of RAW Therapee is the availability of a set of alternative algorithms for converting a color mosaic of a Bayer filter into a full image. Demosaicing methods include AMaZE, DCB, fast, AHD, EAHD, HPHD and VNG4. Each of the listed options for converting RAW to a color image (remember that RAW is not a “picture”, but a set of information about the brightness level on each photodiode of the photosensitive matrix) makes it possible to select the number of steps to suppress false colors.
RAW Therapee successfully implements correction using curves. For an untrained user who has never used this tool before, it is very difficult to understand what shape the curve should take in order for the photo to turn out the desired way. In the tone curve settings, you can select the “parametric” option. In this curve control mode, you can forget about the control points that define the shape of the graph and use sliders with more understandable names for adjustments - highlights, dark tones, light tones, shadows. Tone curves can be saved, loaded, copied and pasted from the clipboard.
RAW Therapee stores the history of performed actions in the same way as it is implemented in Adobe Photoshop. You can roll back to the previous stage of image processing at any time.
By the way, the application can work in conjunction with a more powerful graphics editor, sending the converted file to GIMP or Adobe Photoshop.
The program interface allows you to edit several RAW files simultaneously on different tabs. It's also worth keeping in mind that RAW Therapee supports dual monitors. In addition to the main feature - RAW editing - the utility from the Hungarian developer can be used to work with JPEG, TIFF and PNG formats.
⇡ Conclusion
There is no doubt that the day will come when the cheapest cameras and even smartphones will be able to please their owners with support for the RAW standard. Already now RAW is confidently reaching the masses and support for such files can be found even in graphic editors entry level, built on the one-click principle. On the other hand, RAW is not a recipe for good photography. An ineptly chosen angle and trembling hands when pressing the shutter button can lead to the fact that no RAW converter will allow you to eliminate shooting defects. The RAW format is an opportunity not to lose a valuable frame due to incorrectly selected camera settings. RAW is also a chance to realize your talent as an artist, an opportunity to present your vision of the plot, to show your palette of feelings and moods in the photo. The main thing is to gain experience and not be afraid to experiment.
A RAW file (Raw Image Data File) refers to image data files. The RAW format is common in the field digital photography, here similar format files appear directly from the device matrix, bypassing the processing process. Among SLR and even digital cameras, the emergence of the ability to shoot RAW is often associated with the photographic equipment being in debug mode or after a firmware change.
Given the lack of a clear specification for the RAW extension, there are several options for the information it carries. Mostly, this file stores the state of one or another element of the light-sensitive matrix, thanks to this, photographs in RAW format contribute to obtaining the final image without losing excessively darkened and lightened areas of a certain frame.
When delving into the concept of what the RAW format is, you should be aware of the name given to it by professional photographers. These image formats are called "digital negatives". These file extensions can be formed in the form of several versions of the same image, and during RAW processing, you can change the parameters, with the exception of those that cannot be corrected, for example, a strong exposure error.
A RAW file can be opened using special programs that support the RAW format. Quite often the display of such files when viewing is like that, if they were run in JPEG format. Considering the very large number of software, opening RAW files is done with such popular graphic editors, like Adobe Photoshop, as well as Corel PaintShop, ACD Systems and others.
The main feature of the RAW series format is that images are stored separately from additional parameters their processing, such as exposure compensation data and white balance, as well as saturation, sharpness or brightness, and contrast.
Files in this graphic format are saved by the camera to a memory card, just like other data received in other image formats. RAW file can be converted to more common formats such as JPEG, TIFF
RAW or Jpeg - what is the difference and which format is better to shoot in?
How to ensure high-quality color rendition - this question probably concerns every photographer. You can adjust color rendering in two ways:
- Shoot in JPEG format and use camera settings - white balance, saturation, brightness, image contrast
- Shoot in RAW format (if the device allows this) and adjust color rendition when processing photos on a PC
Both of these methods have their pros and cons, I will try to briefly talk about them. But before we start practicing, let's first determine what the difference is between JPEG and RAW formats.
JPEG format
The format got its name from the acronym Joint Photographic Experts Group, the organization that created this format. JPEG is by far the most popular photo storage format, so all cameras without exception can save images in this format, and all picture and video playback devices ( personal computers all varieties, media, DVD, BlueRay players, digital photoframes and other devices) can read this format and reproduce the image on the screen. Compatibility with a large number of playback devices is the main advantage of the JPEG format. Additionally, JPEG files are moderate in size compared to other graphic formats- BMP, TIFF.
However, JPEG also has disadvantages. When encoding a picture into the JPEG format, data compression occurs, as a result of which some of the data is lost. With a high degree of compression, the quality of the image seriously suffers; so-called artifacts are visible on it, that is, distortions caused by the loss of too much information during compression.
The picture, I think, needs no comment.
Of course, the camera has several levels of image quality, for example, standard (standard, normal), good (good), best (fine, superfine). In standard quality, the photos are of a moderate size (a lot of photos fit on a flash drive), but in some cases artifacts may be noticeable in the photos. Photos with a lot of fine details are most susceptible to deterioration in quality - in this case, compression can significantly degrade the detail of the image.
Photos taken in best quality They have a larger size in megabytes, fewer pictures fit on a flash drive, but the detail on them is noticeably better. When asked what quality is best to shoot in JPEG format, I definitely recommend using the best quality. Flash drives and hard disks not so expensive that you skimp on photo quality. Photos taken at "standard" quality may look good on a computer screen, but even with minor processing you may be disappointed.
If we're talking about detail when shooting in JPEG, we can't help but mention setting the photo resolution. If the device has a resolution of, for example, 12 megapixels, then its maximum image resolution is approximately 4000 * 3000 pixels (this is enough to print 30 * 45 cm). However, you can change the resolution of photos in the image quality settings. Typically, settings are marked with letters:
- S (English small - small)- the smallest resolution, which is barely enough to print 10*15 cm. As a rule, it corresponds to 2-3 megapixels.
- M (English: medium)- average resolution. Photo resolution can vary from 5 to 10 megapixels, which corresponds to a print format of 20*30 cm.
- L (eng. large - large)- maximum resolution corresponding to the matrix resolution in megapixels. Modern devices have up to 36 megapixels, print format is up to 90*60 cm.
The ability to print photographs on huge canvases is a dubious advantage for the average amateur photographer. However, by saving photos at the highest possible resolution, we get additional features by cropping the image without visible loss of print quality. This is the decisive factor in favor of L mode, in which photos are saved to a flash drive with maximum resolution.
So, in order to get the maximum resolution combined with the best detail, in the photo quality settings we select the mode - maximum resolution (L) with minimum compression (best, superfine).
Sometimes pictograms are used instead of a verbal description of the compression level. Here is an example of the quality selection menu for a Canon DSLR. For now we look only at the left column:
We see that in front of the letters L, M, S there are icons with a smooth left edge and a stepped one. A pictogram with a smooth edge corresponds to less compression, and with a stepped edge - more. In the right column there are different options for shooting in RAW format, which will be discussed below.
Setting the quality and compression ratio is only half the battle... Now you need to make a number of adjustments to ensure the best color reproduction. Color rendering is adjusted in two stages:
- Setting White Balance
- Adjusting image parameters - contrast, saturation, sharpness.
White balance
You've probably noticed that different light sources have different color shades. A candle gives yellow light, the setting sun gives reddish light, a fluorescent lamp gives bluish light. Our eyes and brain are designed in such a way that, under almost any conditions, a sheet of white paper will be perceived as white - even if it is illuminated on one side by a candle and on the other by a fluorescent lamp. The brain will "force" itself to tell itself that the eyes see a white object because it knows that the paper is white.
Unfortunately, this number will not work with the camera matrix. The camera does not know what color objects we are familiar with are, so in unusual lighting conditions significant color distortion is possible. The most typical example is when shooting without a flash in a room lit by incandescent lamps, the photographs often turn yellow.
To avoid such color distortion, it is in our power to “help” the camera decide which of the objects should be “considered” white. This is done using the white balance setting function.
The easiest way to set white balance is to select one of the preset programs. As a rule, the camera has several presets. Usually they are as follows:
- Sunny
- Mainly cloudy
- Sunset Dawn
- Incandescent lamp
- Fluorescent Lamp
- Flash
- Custom White Balance
In auto white balance mode, the camera itself tries to determine the type of light source and adjust the color rendition accordingly. Most often he succeeds, but you should not rely 100% on this function. She especially likes to make mistakes in mixed lighting, for example - an incandescent lamp is on in the room (yellowish tint), and daylight comes in from the window (bluish tint). In this case, no one will protect against the appearance of yellow, or, conversely, blue faces in the photograph.
This photo shows how Auto White Balance fails in mixed lighting. To avoid such errors, in some cases it is necessary to forcefully set the white balance in accordance with the prevailing type of lighting. In this case, setting the white balance to “incandescent” would help. The landscape outside the window would turn a little blue, but the yellowness in the foreground would disappear, making the color rendition closer to reality. Of course, there is a way out - each time set the white balance in accordance with the source of the main lighting. We entered a room illuminated by incandescent lamps and set the white balance to "incandescent lamp". We went outside and set it to “sunny” or “cloudy” depending on the weather.
In cases with mixed lighting, when there is light from a window on one side and light from a lamp on the other, a flash often helps. If it has sufficient power, it can “crush” other light sources and illuminate the scene being filmed with uniform light. In this case, the white balance must be set to either “flash” or “auto” (when the flash is turned on, the device itself will determine it as the main type of light source). The best results are achieved when using external flash, but for amateur “everyday” photography, in most cases the built-in flash is sufficient.
Manual (custom) white balance
Although the preset white balance modes cover most frequently used lighting sources, there are situations when none of the proposed modes are suitable. Take, for example, an incandescent lamp. Powerful lamps (75-100 W) produce light that is closer to white, while weak lamps (25-40 W) have a yellowish tint. A special case - energy-saving lamps, especially cheap ones, whose spectrum is such that even the human eye is sometimes unable to adequately assess the color picture.
Some devices have the ability to fine-tune the white balance relative to the preset one, however, in order to optimally adjust the color rendition for given lighting conditions, you need to take several frames with different settings and select the setting with which the color rendition is as close as possible to reality. This takes a long time and is not always effective, since you have to focus on the image displayed on the LCD screen, the color rendition of which is not always ideal.
It is much easier to use the “manual white balance” function. To do this, you need to photograph some white object (or just a sheet of white paper), and then point this photograph to the camera as a sample by which to set the white balance. I don’t see any point in describing in detail how this is done - different devices have their own sequence of actions, so I recommend using the instructions, everything is described there step by step specifically for your device.
Most cameras can save one or more custom white balance settings. If you regularly have to photograph under specific lighting, it makes sense to save the white balance setting so that you don’t have to worry about photographing a white sheet later.
To illustrate the capabilities of manual white balance, I propose to compare the color rendition in two photographs:
Automatic BB
Manual BB (the white jacket of the left character was used as a white sample)
The result is noticeable - in the first case the photo turned yellow, in the second the color rendition is close to reality.
Setting the Picture Style
The “picture style” function is probably found in all cameras. With its help, you can adjust the brightness, contrast, color saturation, picture clarity, and also “force” the device to shoot in b/w or sepia mode.
As a rule, the device already has a set of preset image styles - landscape, portrait, natural tones, accurate tones, and so on, as well as several “empty” cells for custom settings. Here is an example of the menu item “selecting a picture style for a Canon EOS 5D camera:
All presets are a combination of parameters:
- sharpness
- contrast
- saturation
- tone color
It’s somewhat reminiscent of the picture adjustment function on a TV :) With contrast, saturation and tone color, I think everything is clear. Sharpness refers to software “enhancing” the contours of objects, due to which the picture will appear sharper. Keyword- “to seem.” In fact, software sharpening does not increase the detail of the photo. If the object in the photograph is slightly blurry initially (out of focus, or the lens could not capture all its nuances), no software algorithm will be able to “invent” the missing details. You shouldn't turn the sharpness control all the way up in hopes of improving the quality of the photo.
As you can see, setting up your camera to shoot JPEGs to get the best results is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. This is precisely the main disadvantage of JPEG over another format - RAW - which will be discussed further...
RAW format
Why do you need the RAW format and why is it better than the JPEG format?
The format got its name from English word"raw", which means "raw, unprocessed". In principle, this is quite consistent with the essence of the matter. When using the RAW format, the signal captured from the matrix is written as a file to a flash drive (the file extension may differ for different cameras). The camera does not do any processing, allowing the user to process information on a PC using special program- RAW converter. This gives a huge advantage - the photographer does not need to worry about white balance, brightness, contrast, saturation of the image - all this can be adjusted later on a good monitor. “Raw” data carries a large amount of redundant information, which, if necessary, will allow you to adjust all these image parameters as accurately and correctly as possible.
In the JPEG format, all "extra" data is eliminated to provide the smallest file size, which seriously limits processing capabilities. While brightness and contrast can still be adjusted, incorrect white balance is much more difficult to correct, especially if the error is large. In this case, you have to sacrifice the naturalness of the flowers. Here is an example when a photograph that had turned yellow was extracted from JPEG and RAW.
Original version
Corrected version (JPEG)
Adjusted version (RAW)
As you can see from the examples above, when trying to correct the white balance in a JPG, the picture acquired a somewhat unnatural tint, as if the photo was shot on cheap negative film that was scanned on a household scanner. I note that in this case I did not make any special efforts to bring the colors closer to real ones, but this required several operations in Adobe Photoshop. You can read more about editing white balance in JPEG in this article /article45.html. The point of the article is that correcting a minor white balance error in a JPEG is possible, but it is a rather non-trivial task. If there is a serious white balance error, it is unfortunately impossible to restore color reproduction without visible loss of quality when working with the JPEG format.
Main features of RAW
Instead of describing the capabilities of RAW here, I will show an example of how one initially unsuccessful photo was saved. During a summer trip to St. Petersburg, my wife and I visited the Hermitage, naturally taking a camera with us. As in all museums, flash photography is prohibited in the Hermitage. Anticipating this situation, I took a fast Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 lens. But the main problem lay in the fact that different rooms had different lighting - in some there was daylight from the windows, in others there was artificial lighting. If I were shooting in JPEG format, I would have trouble setting the white balance. Looking ahead, I will say that the shooting was carried out in RAW and it was possible to simulate the situation, what the result would have been with certain BB settings in JPEG. So let's start from the beginning:
Auto white balance:
A terrible mixture of yellow and red! Such photographs are often taken when the room is illuminated by a large number of incandescent lamps of relatively low power, in which case the photograph is painted in a yellow tint. Well, let's try to set the white balance to "Incandescent"... Here's what happened:
A bit better. The yellowness became less, but an incomprehensible green appeared. The result is also unsatisfactory.
Option with manual installation White balance is very labor-intensive, since you will have to carry out this procedure in almost every new room. Fortunately, there is a RAW file that allows you to set the correct white balance on your computer in 1 mouse click.
For RAW processing, we used the Digital Photo Professional program, which came with the Canon EOS 5D camera (on the software disc). As for other devices, I’m more than sure that something similar is provided for them too.
The program has a very simple interface, so understanding it will not be difficult. In fact, it duplicates the camera settings regarding color rendering, and also has a number of other functions.
To set the white balance, take the eyedropper (shown by the red arrow) and poke it into the part of the photo that should look white or light gray. In this case, it was my jacket. The colors in the photograph can be seen in the picture. The result obtained cannot be compared with what was obtained only standard settings camera
The Digital Photo Professional program allows you to “retrospectively” set the color rendering settings of the image, which are available through the camera menu. Thus, during shooting you get the opportunity not to waste time setting white balance or choosing an image style. This is especially true when shooting reportage, where every second counts. The program allows you to do some things that are simply not available through the menu, for example - adjusting noise reduction, adjusting sharpness, correcting chromatic aberrations and distortion (distortion of straight lines at the edges of the frame). The only condition under which all this works is that the photo is taken in RAW format. With JPEG most features are not available.
It must be said that the Digital Photo Professional program has relatively little functionality compared to popular program Adobe Photoshop Lightroom, however, it is worth considering the fact that licensed Adobe Photoshop Lightroom costs about $200, and updates to new versions of this program are paid (about $100). Digital Photo Professional is available to us completely free of charge and is updated to newer versions just as free. However, there is a caveat - the program itself cannot be downloaded; it must be installed from disk. From the Canon website you can only download an update to the latest version.
I see no point in writing a manual for Digital Photo Professional here for two reasons - firstly, it will only be of interest to owners of Canon devices, and secondly, such a manual already exists - http://www.ixbt.com/digimage/canon_dppix.shtml
Even if the JPEG version has the correct white balance, the RAW version of the photo will likely have better quality. The reason is simple. The performance of a computer processor is much greater than the performance of a camera and is more than capable complex algorithms image processing - improving detail, noise filtering, and other processing. Even if processing takes some time, this is not a problem for the computer - the user can wait. When photographing, every second is worth its weight in gold. As a result, the algorithms used by the camera to process the image taken from the matrix are squeezed into a tight time frame so as not to reduce the speed characteristics of the camera. For example, those actions that a computer can do in 10 seconds, the device must perform in no more than 1 second. This inevitably affects the quality of processing, especially when the device does not have the most modern and fast processor. This is why the result of shooting in JPEG is almost always worse than correctly processed RAW.
It is impossible not to mention one more technical aspect. When shooting in JPEG, pixel color information is encoded in 24 bits, when shooting in RAW - from 30 to 42 bits. It's easy to imagine how many more colors can be encoded in 42 bits instead of 24.
What are the main disadvantages of the RAW format?
RAW is not available on all cameras. Owners of DSLRs and “top-end” point-and-shoot cameras can rest easy, but those who have relatively inexpensive compact devices may be disappointed - they most likely do not support the RAW format.
RAW files cannot be opened on any device other than a PC with special software installed. Media players, digital photo frames, tablet computers photos in RAW format will not be shown. To do this, they need to be converted to JPEG format (on a PC, using RAW processing software).
The RAW processing program that comes with the camera on disk has a rather meager set of capabilities. More functional software is often paid.
The file size is approximately 2 times larger than JPEG in the best quality. If you are going on a long trip and intend to take photographs in RAW, stock up on a larger capacity flash drive.
What is the RAW+JPEG format?
In most devices, you can select a mode where photos are written to a flash drive in the form of 2 files - one RAW, the other JPEG. This can be useful in cases where the main shooting is in JPEG format, but you need to play it safe so that if something happens you can “pull” an incorrectly taken photo from RAW.
If the results in JPEG format satisfy the photographer (or customer), RAW files can be safely deleted. As you can see in the picture, for the JPEG option you can choose different resolutions and qualities. Keep in mind that when shooting in RAW+JPEG, the flash drive will run out faster than just shooting in RAW.
What format should I shoot in?
If you're interested in getting the most out of your camera, which translates into the highest quality photos possible, I highly recommend shooting in RAW. All further chapters of the textbook will assume that the shooting is carried out in this format.
Questions for self-control
If your camera can shoot in RAW:
1. Install a RAW processing program on your computer (if it is not already installed). If you don’t know where to get it, look for it on the disk that came with the camera.
2. Take several photos in RAW+JPEG format. If you are shooting indoors, try to avoid flash.
3. Download the result of filming to your PC and process the RAW files in installed program. Set the correct white balance (based on the white area of the image), brightness, contrast, and noise reduction level. Compare your results with JPEG images.
If your camera does not support RAW
1. Check what image quality you have selected. Set the resolution to maximum with minimum compression.
2. Experiment with image styles - change brightness, contrast, saturation, color tone. Save your favorite settings as a custom mode. How to do this - read the instructions for the camera.
3. Learn to set white balance using a sheet of white paper.
You may have heard that photos are best taken in RAW format. More and more information on this topic is now appearing on the Internet. But do you know how this format improves the quality of photos? And how will they differ from photographs taken in other formats? Let's find out!
Firstly, what is RAW? RAW (which means “raw” in English) is file format, which records all image parameters recorded by the camera matrix. When you take photos in another format, such as JPEG, the image information is compressed and some of it is lost. The RAW format does not compress information, and after the necessary adjustments, you can get a high-quality photo. This format eliminates image problems that cannot be corrected in JPEG images.
Many modern digital cameras take pictures in RAW format (including so-called digital point-and-shoot cameras). Read the user manual carefully; perhaps photographs in RAW format, with all their advantages, are available even to your small camera!
So, let's list the advantages of the RAW format.
1 High level of image quality
This is the most important advantage of RAW files. When you shoot in RAW format, you get a record of all the data from the sensor. If you have shot an unusual scene of remarkable beauty, you want the quality of the photography to be of the highest quality.
All modern digital cameras are technically capable of taking photographs in RAW format. Yes it's true.
But when you shoot in JPEG format, the camera automatically converts what you shot in RAW format to JPEG.
At the same time, your camera is not nearly as smart as your brain, and it is not as powerful as a computer.
When you take photos in RAW format, you can process them the way you want. You decide how the shot should look and determine the path to achieve the best result.
2 Multiple brightness levels
The RAW format contains many levels of brightness (successive steps from white to black) in an image. The more brightness levels, the smoother the tonal transitions in the image.
JPEG records 256 brightness levels, while RAW records 4096 to 16384 levels! Technically this is described by the term "bit". The JPEG format contains 8 bits of information per component (or 8 bits per pixel for black-and-white grayscale images), while the RAW format contains 12 to 14 bits. This difference has a decisive impact on the quality of photographs.
The high degree of resolution produces a huge effect. Additional steps to change brightness allow you to make more adjustments (change color saturation, highlights, shadows, contrast, brightness, etc.) to the image without significantly reducing the quality, because there are many levels to process!
When shooting in RAW format it is easier to avoid the isohelium effect. The isohelium effect appears as banding - for example, you see a bright, clear sky, but when you print your pictures, the sky suddenly appears to consist of colored stripes. As a result, the photo looks bad.
3 Correcting extreme exposures
Obviously, you want to set the best exposure when photographing, but sometimes the fast pace of events (especially at weddings!) does not leave time to get it right, and you set the exposure at a fast pace, or simply do not have time to change it. The result is a scene that is too bright or too dark. This photograph can be restored to good condition.
The RAW format captures a huge amount of information in the file, which allows you to correct errors in the image without a sharp decrease in quality. Such an adjustment can rid the photo of glare, harsh shadows and other defects.
4 Easily adjustable white balance
When you shoot in JPEG format, white balance is configured automatically. You simply cannot choose another option. With RAW data format white balance is recorded in full, and the large amount of information makes it easy to change it and adjust it in the right direction.
Correct white balance and colors are important to creating beautiful scenes and images, and shooting in RAW format allows adjustments to be made quickly and easily. And get the best result.
5 Getting better detail
When you shoot in RAW format, you can sharpen your shot and remove noise in programs like Lightroom, which are much more powerful than the software installed on your camera.
In addition, algorithms for creating sharpness and elimination noise are constantly being improved, so that in the future you will be able to open the saved original source again and take advantage of improved filters.
6 Ease of editing
When you make adjustments to a RAW file, the original data is preserved as it was before the adjustment process. All you do is create a set of descriptions (instructions) about changes. JPEG or TIFF formats do not preserve the state of the original source in the saved version. Therefore, if a copy of the original frame is not created, you can forget about its original form forever.
When working with a RAW file, you never have to worry about damaging the original image that you accidentally saved after an unsuccessful adjustment. You can always reset the settings and start editing the photo again.
JPEG files lose their original quality with each new adjustment and each new save. This is true. This is what is called "file format loss". So if you make changes to a JPEG, you should always duplicate the original and save the adjusted version unless you want to lose file quality. Which, in the end, is very troublesome.
7 Getting a high-quality print on photo paper
Due to the subtle gradation of tone and color, prints from RAW files will be higher quality than images taken in other formats.
Although more and more people are storing photographs in digital format, the importance of printed photographs should not be underestimated (perhaps due to their relative rarity today). On RAW paper, the image will look high quality, and unpleasant stripes will not be noticeable when transitioning from one color to another.
8 Selecting the output color model
The color space for creation, storage and printing can vary, and there is ultimately nothing complicated about it. When working with RAW files, you can choose any color model when you export your photo. The color model is selected and adjusted depending on the situation.
There are different color models that are optimal for different situations. When you shoot in RAW format, you can export your shot in multiple color models, which is very convenient.
9 Increased work efficiency
Lightroom or Aperture programs allow you to process more than just single images. In these programs, you can process large batches of the same type of images, applying corrections and filters to the entire batch at once. Photoshop, for example, only allows you to process one image per period of time. In order to process your photos in Lightroom or Aperture, you must shoot in RAW format.
10 Great opportunities for professionals
Professional photographers must provide their clients with the highest quality images possible. When a printed product is offered to a client, issues of unwanted isohelion and glare must be addressed. Correctly adjusted color balance and color model are also critical to image quality.
Photographing in RAW format allows you to control the quality and also provides opportunities to correct problems in your photographs.
Some digital (non-SLR) cameras are also capable of taking RAW photographs, and now the benefits of RAW can be appreciated not only by professionals, but also by amateur photographers who want to improve the quality of their photographs (both for electronic and printed versions).
Disadvantages of the RAW format and ways to solve problems
Every program, format and file has its pros and cons, and the RAW format is no exception. We will talk about the disadvantages of the RAW format and look at some ways to solve problems.
RAW files must be processed
The most common argument against shooting in RAW is that because the files must be processed, we spend more time on the process of obtaining the photo than when using the JPEG format. And this may be true if you do not spend time on any processing of JPEG frames.
But since most photographers always (to a greater or lesser extent) process their JPEG images, their arguments about wasting time become unconvincing.
If, when processing a RAW file, you adjust the white balance, change the light and shadow parameters, you can do this faster than if you were processing JPEG files.
The image is in RAW format, you can easily export it to JPEG, it can be converted specifically for web printing. Modern digital SLR cameras allow you to immediately, with one click of the camera shutter, take two frames at once - in RAW and JPEG formats.
The RAW format has more features and photos can be processed quickly, if not faster, than JPEG.
RAW files take up a lot of space
RAW files are uncompressed and take up two to three times more space than JPEG files. The issue of file size is of great importance, especially for those who take a lot of photographs often. However, the cost hard drives, which can store many images, has dropped significantly over the past few years.
let's consider HDD for 3 terabytes
- A 3 terabyte disk costs about 10 thousand rubles;
- On such a disk you can store 375,000 photographs in JPEG format (calculation for large files of 8 MB. The cost of one stored image will be 2.7 kopecks;
- A 3 TB drive can store 100,000 RAW images (each file is 30 MB in size). The cost of one stored frame will be 10 kopecks.
It is clear that fewer frames can be stored on disk. However, the number of pictures accumulated when the disk is completely full is impressive! And always remember that storing all images exclusively on one drive is dangerous. Don't put all your photographic eggs in one basket!
The same thing happens with memory cards as with cameras. Their prices are constantly decreasing. Remember the times when a 2GB memory card cost more than 10 thousand rubles? Currently, you can buy a 4GB memory card for only 300 rubles. This pricing policy is hard to wrap your head around.
Yes, RAW files are larger and take up more space. But it is the information stored in them that ensures high quality images. Image storage high quality will cost you an additional 7.3 kopecks per image.
Slow recording to memory card
RAW files are large compared to JPEG files, and they quickly fill up the frame buffer when shooting. The camera will shoot as much as you need, will take as many frames per second as you need, in any format. But if it's a RAW format, the camera's buffer can quickly fill up, and you'll have to wait until the camera transfers the information from the clipboard to the memory card. And this takes time.
When constantly shooting with a large number of frames in RAW format, it is better to purchase faster memory cards, or more expensive cameras with a larger buffer .
Specifics of RAW code
RAW files are often recorded in a special format, which means camera manufacturers do not officially reveal themselves and their source data may be subject to change. Companies such as Adobe must license software to decode RAW files or convert them back. So, for Canon cameras the RAW format is recorded as .CR2, for Nikon cameras this format is recorded as .NEF.
The problem is that you can't be sure that in 5, 10 or 20 years you will be able to open a RAW file if you don't have the appropriate software to decode it!
New RAW format with open source code was designed to overcome this obstacle. It was developed by Adobe programmers and is now known as DNG (Digital Negative). Using a program like Lightroom, you can convert your own RAW files to the open source DNG format. It will take some time, but doing this will ensure that your files will be readable well into the future!
The Leica M9 shoots in DNG format, and new products in this area are constantly appearing. So keep an eye on camera manufacturers to use this format in the future!
Choose RAW!
I hope this article changes your perspective on the RAW format and its benefits. The assumption that working with RAW files takes too long (or has too many processing steps) doesn't really hold water.
Once you get started, you'll soon be able to process easily and quickly. As a result, you will receive perfect quality images that may have taken so much time and effort to create that they have already become of great value to you!
As a result of shooting in Raw format, there are fewer images on the flash card, and more time has to be spent on processing. So why then do almost all professional photographers prefer to shoot in this format? Below you'll find answers to 8 frequently asked questions about shooting in Raw by newbies.
1. What is Raw?
So, let's look at the pros and cons. Essentially, Raw is just a file format, and its digital alternative is JPEG. Capability is a significant advantage of digital SLR cameras, as well as expensive compact cameras.
2. What are the main advantages of Raw over JPEG?
The Raw file, as its name suggests (translated from English as raw), stores the data received from the camera matrix in its raw, unprocessed form. This has a lot of benefits in terms of photo quality and post-processing.
Many people perceive Raw files as the digital equivalent of an old-fashioned film negative. This “modern negative” stores a large amount of information that is available in the “digital darkroom”, i.e. in appropriate computer programs intended for editing.
The raw file gives you all the original data, the settings of which you can later change without losing image quality. You can adjust sharpness, contrast, white balance and even exposure after you've shot the footage, which is the beauty of the Raw format.
3. Shouldn't these settings be set directly during shooting?
Some old-timers might object, but in my opinion, the beauty of digital photography is that it gives us the ability to control so much more.
Thanks to the Raw format, you can adjust color, contrast, brightness, shadows, and all this will not affect the quality in any way. Therefore, every good photographer should take full advantage of such opportunities.
With Raw, you can either save an almost hopeless shot or simply adjust basic settings.
4. Are there any other advantages to the Raw format?
Yes. It captures more information. JPEG is an 8-bit image with a value for each of the three basic colors (red, green, blue) from 00000000 to 11111111.
For those who do not own the system binary code, to clarify, this means that a JPEG contains 256 different values for each color channel.
Therefore, image pixels can display up to 16.7 million colors (256x256x256). However, a digital SLR camera can recognize even more colors...
5. How much more?
DSLR cameras typically come in 12-bit or 15-bit with brightness levels for each channel ranging from 4000 to 16000.
The result is 68.7 billion or 35.1 trillion different shades.
You may think that this amount of information is simple and unnecessary, but precisely because of this colossal amount of data, you can make serious changes to the contrast, exposure, and color balance settings during the editing process and at the same time avoid such unpleasant side effects as posterization.
Top processing programs are capable of working in 16-bit editing mode, which allows you to save all data throughout the entire processing process.
Photo Science: How your camera's sensor processes color in JPEG and RAW formats.
In order to recognize color, each pixel on your camera's sensor is equipped with one of three color filters (red, green or blue). Thus, one pixel can estimate the brightness of only one of the primary colors. However, by comparing the values of neighboring pixels, the exact color of each of them can be revealed.
When you take a JPEG photo, the process of recognizing color from adjacent pixels happens in the camera itself. By shooting in Raw, you can make the necessary changes on the computer after shooting.
Most cameras use a filter color model Bayer (shown in this picture). In this system, the number of green filters is twice as large as red and blue, this is explained by the fact that the human eye is more sensitive to green color.
6. Do all editors support Raw format?
Most programs partially support the Raw format. The programs that come with your camera can be useful for processing, and the latest versions of popular software such as Serif PhotoPlus, Adobe Photoshop, Photoshop Elements and Corel PaintShop Pro fully support Raw files.
However, Raw format not standardized; each manufacturer uses its own information encoding system. Moreover, with every exit new camera Some changes are being made to this system. In this regard, photo editors must be constantly updated in order to work correctly with Raw files from the latest cameras.
7. But why can't Raw be standardized?
Yes, this fact, of course, sometimes infuriates you. Updated software become available only some time after the release of a new camera. And Adobe, sadly, does not provide updates for outdated versions Photoshop (i.e. you have to completely update the program, although it would be much easier to just install a free plugin in case you don't use latest version this world-leading software).
Adobe tried to introduce its own standard for raw files, DNG (Digital Negative), but few manufacturers supported this innovation.
8. Should I use Raw all the time?
Use Raw as often as possible. Although there are some disadvantages, Raw files take up much more space on the memory card and on the computer than JPEGs and take longer to record. Accordingly, during continuous shooting, the camera buffer fills up faster and the camera begins to slow down. For some DSLR cameras, the buffer fills up after only 4-5 frames.
For this reason, sports photographers tend to shoot in JPEG format. This allows them to photograph at a high frame rate so they don't miss the best shot.
