Instruction
Finish work in operating system and turn off the power with the key switch located on the rear side of the system unit case next to the power cord connection jack. If your system unit does not have such a switch, then simply unplug the power cord from the outlet.
Put system unit on the right (when viewed from the front panel) side surface. Since you will have to make some efforts, the body must have a stable position. If in order to conveniently position it, you need to disconnect all the wires on the back surface - do it.
If you don't, you can double check the steps listed above to make sure you don't miss a step. If you have completed all of the steps above, check the list below for general troubleshooting checks to check for any configuration issues or hardware issues.
A fan that is not spinning may lead people to believe that the board is not working. Make sure your memory is properly aligned and installed correctly in the socket. It's not uncommon for one side of the memory to snap into place, but the other side didn't. Give each one a little tug to make sure it doesn't pop out of the joint, indicating that it isn't making contact with it. Check the power switch on the back of the power supply. This can be done using the 3-pin jumper shown in your manual.
Remove the left side panel. Usually it is attached with two screws to the back of the case, and will be removed by shifting back.
Disconnect the power wiring connecting the cooler fan to the motherboard.
Determine the type of cooler attachment to system board- there are quite a few of them. In the vast majority of cases, the cooler heat sink is pressed against the processor by an elastic metal rocker, which has cutouts on both sides and clings to the plastic protrusions on both sides of the processor mount. It is necessary to sequentially release the upper edge of this rocker first, then the lower one. Some of the cooler models have a large plastic lever on the upper arm mount - in this case it will be enough to turn it to release the upper end. If there is no such lever, then slightly press this side of the spring rocker against the board (for example, with a screwdriver) and pull it out of the protrusion on the processor mount. It will be easy to release the bottom edge, since in the absence of tension it will hang freely in its groove.
You can also remove the battery within one minute with your motherboard. You should be able to carefully place it into the nest. If none of the above methods work, you may be experiencing a problem with faulty hardware or an issue out of scope. this manual. If this is the case, contact the hardware manufacturer for help, or check the Internet and forums for other user's advice on what you can check. The processor remains one of the most important components in a modern computer.
Grasp the metal heat sink of the cooler and carefully remove it from the processor. The place where the heat sink is attached to the processor is covered with thermal paste, which has a rather viscous consistency and, moreover, was constantly under pressure created by a spring rocker. Therefore, even without mechanical fastening, thermal paste can independently hold the heatsink on the processor case. Do not tear off the cooler with great force, rather move it as far as possible in a horizontal direction to reduce the area of adhesion of the two surfaces covered with thermal paste, and then remove it.
Upgrading can provide significant benefits in some games and applications, especially if you are switching from a dual-core or quad-core model, or upgrading from an older processor architecture. It's also not that hard of a project for a geek to handle, but it might seem daunting. You must handle some of the most important components of your system, components that can cost money. Here's how to properly install or replace your computer's processor.
However, there is one more thing you should check that many people forget about it the first time - compatibility. You may experience this problem if you install new processor on an older motherboard. Some older motherboards will not recognize the latest processors even if the socket is physically compatible.
The dust that the cooler that cools the computer's processor collects does not disappear for years, because usually no one monitors it. Sooner or later, the cooler becomes so clogged with dirt that it no longer copes with its task, and the processor starts to heat up. Sudden system reboots, freezes, and lags are all symptoms of a CPU overheating. In such a situation, it is necessary to remove the cooler and clean it from dirt.
Before installing any processor, check the manufacturer's support page for your motherboard. You must find a list of compatible processors and determine if you need to update. This step assumes that you are upgrading. If you are building new system, you can proceed to the next step.
You may be able to install a new processor without removing the motherboard, but this often cannot be done. To remove the motherboard, turn off the computer and unplug it from the wall outlet. You will notice that there are a lot of wires connected to your motherboard. You will need to disable them all. Do this one at a time, and each time you disconnect a wire, wrap tape around it and label it. If you want to further clarify the situation, you can draw a diagram of your motherboard and indicate where each labeled wire is physically connected.
Instruction
Unscrew the screws and remove the side cover of the case.
Depending on the specific design, the cooler together with the radiator is fastened either with a clamp located on one of its sides, or with special locks, or with ordinary screws. Release the entire structure by pressing on the clips or unscrewing the corresponding screws.
This may sound silly, but it will save you a lot of trouble if you forget where the wire goes. After removing all the wires, unscrew the motherboard from the case and pull it out. It doesn't take much effort - if so, check that you haven't missed the screw and that there is nothing obstructing it.
Once the motherboard is removed, you must also remove the cooler from the processor. Different colors use different attachment mechanisms, but most are removed by either turning individual pins, opening a latch, or removing some screws.
Gently lift and remove the cooler and heatsink. Now they can be completely cleaned of dirt and accumulated years of dust. When installing the structure back, do not forget to lubricate the processor and the heatsink sole in contact with it with thermal paste that protects against overheating.
This will not change the instructions below, but the exact look of the processor and motherboard socket will differ. Now processor socket visible. If you upgrade, your old one will be there. If you are installing a new motherboard, there may be a plastic shield or holder.
Either way, open the outlet by lifting up the metal rod or rods next to it. This weakens the fastening mechanism. Now delete old cpu and place a new one. If you examine the socket and processor, you will notice a pattern that will be the same for both, or a small notch or knob that lines up with the motherboard socket. This will prevent the processor from being installed in the wrong direction.
If you do not have thermal paste on hand, you can remove the cooler in another way. Quite often, the design of the cooler itself allows you to get to the fan. It is usually protected from above by a grille fixed with four screws. By unscrewing these screws, you can pull out the fan. At the same time, there will be enough free space to clean it without disconnecting the entire structure from the motherboard. For
For example, the figure below shows four empty areas on the bottom of the processor that have no pins. These same areas can be found on the motherboard socket in the picture above. You should just leave the new processor in the socket - if it doesn't lie flat, you haven't lined it up correctly. Trying to pop it into the socket when it's not lined up will just bend the pin. This is one of the few ways you can damage your motherboard or processor during installation.
Notice how the processor is in the socket. There are no gaps and either side. Here's what your processor should look like if it's properly installed. Once you're sure the processor is seated, you can lower the metal bar that secures it. It is normal for the bar to provide resistance as you lower it.
Man loves warmth. The warmth is comfortable and cozy, joyful and familiar. What a pity that the human brainchild - a computer - is trying to get rid of this heat as quickly as possible. One of these methods is the installation of coolers (fans).
As mentioned above, coolers are designed to remove heat. This is a "hybrid" heatsink and fan that is installed on computer components with increased / high heat dissipation. The main application is the CPU (central processing unit), video card, power supply, chipset chips.
If you've removed an old processor, you'll notice that your coolant solution has some residual thermal compound on it. Wipe it down with a strong cloth that doesn't have a habit of leaving lint behind, then give the cooler some compressed air, just to be sure.
Now apply the thermal bond spot to the center of the processor. The amount you apply should be about the diameter of the pencil and hopefully looks a bit better than my example above. It won't look like much, but it will spread well once you attach the cooler. Bigger is not better - the example above is as big as you need it to be, and that's only because the image in the picture isn't the best. Thermal connection best quality can be applied in smaller quantities because it will spread better when the cooler is installed.
The main characteristics of the cooler are the noise level and air performance. There is one caveat - these two characteristics are very rarely combined with each other. The higher the performance, the better the heat dissipation, but at the same time the noise level increases. In short, a double-edged sword.
One of the main computer coolers is designed to cool the CPU. It looks massive and performs well. Its "smaller brothers" are the fans on the video card, chipset and power supply.
Speaking of which, do it now. Once the cooler is in place, inspect the edges to make sure the thermal bond is not ejected from the side. If you see this, remove the connection with a dry cloth. Once again, give the area a spray of compressed air to expel any lint. Most of them have three pins, but you may also see four pins. Don't worry if your fan and motherboard don't have the same number of pins. Now that you have installed the processor, you just need to reinstall the motherboard.
The main "assistant" of coolers is thermal paste. Thermally conductive paste is used to reduce thermal resistance between two mating/closely spaced surfaces. It is applied to the area of thermal contact (between the cooler heatsink and the processor/board) and smeared when the surfaces are pressed against each other. In this case, the paste fills the smallest depressions in the surface, displacing air, which has a very low thermal conductivity. Thermal paste has already been applied to the surface of most modern coolers and covered with a special protective layer.
Put it back in the case and reattach all the wires you removed. I hope you followed my previous advice and endowed them. Now plug in your computer and turn the power back on. If all goes well, your computer should boot without problems. You don't need to install drivers to make the processor work.
You can also ask for help by visiting. Notice the outward-facing tab in the middle of each. We will connect the cooler to these tabs using the ends of a metal bar running the length of the radiator. At one end of the bundle there will be a lever that must be opened. Attach the other end of the beam to the matching tab before doing the same from the lever side. With the beam attached at both ends, turn the lever to lock the cooler onto the socket.
I seem to be talking. Initially, I wanted to offer you step-by-step instructions for replacing the cooler. As one saying goes: "Let's go back to our sheep." So, there is a task - replacing the cooler. To do this, we need: screwdrivers (cross-shaped and flat medium) - one, a cloth / damp cloth to remove thermal paste - two, a new fan - three, and heat-conducting paste (if one is not on the cooler) - four.
Once the cooler is securely attached, connect the fan to the appropriate pin cluster called the header on the motherboard. This information can be useful when setting the fan speed in the motherboard firmware.
Don't worry if the number of pins on the motherboard header doesn't match the fan plug. To remove the heatsink, simply flip up the lever, open the tabs, and lift the cooler out of its socket. Depending on the design of the cooler, you may be able to remove the motherboard heatsink holder to allow for more rotation.
We turn off the computer from the network. Disconnect all cables. We take a Phillips screwdriver, run it along the back and side walls to remove static electricity(Be careful not to scratch the body). Unscrew the screws and remove the side cover. We turn the "system unit" on its side. We see a large fan. We are going to change it. We turn the mount against the arrow of the pointer (located on the mount) until it stops, then pull it up. You should hear a soft click. We do the same procedure with the remaining three fasteners. If instead of four mounts you see two levers, then move the mount in the opposite direction (as shown in the picture). Cooler can be removed!
There is no mounting bracket around the socket, just four holes on the motherboard. Matching posts on the heatsink attach it directly to the circuit board. Before the radiator is installed, its pins must be primed. There is a plastic cover at the top of each rack. Rotate each cap counterclockwise and tow it to make sure the attached black post is recessed into the post. Then turn the caps clockwise. The posts only rotate 90 degrees, so don't try to rotate the caps.
After the fan is removed, you need to wipe the processor with a damp cloth (rag, paper) to remove the remnants of the heat-conducting paste. We take a new cooler, remove the protective layer covering the thermal paste from it, carefully install the fan on the processor. There is a wide notch across the entire width of the base of the cooler, which should be above the socket ledge (see the figure below). If you install it with a notch on the opposite side, then the cooler will warp and there will be no connection between the processor and the sole. This threatens to chip the processor or thermal breakdown ("death" of the CPU).
Now lower the cooler onto the socket, taking care to align the posts with the holes in the motherboard. When the cooler is comfortably resting, push the uprights down one at a time. First attach the pins at opposite corners, as if you were attaching a wheel to a car.
To make sure the pins are secure, turn the motherboard over. As shown in the picture above, you should see a protruding black tip repelling the translucent pieces that attach the push pin. Now that the heatsink is installed, it's time to connect the fan.
After you have installed the cooler, try to refrain from tilting, rotating (pressing is also undesirable), or removing it. This is fraught with chips and failure of the CPU. If for some reason the cooler still had to be removed, then you will have to re-lubricate the required areas with thermal paste. If this is not done, so-called "air cushions" may appear, which lead to overheating and system instability.
Rotate the posts counterclockwise, pull up to release the pins, and then remove the cooler from its socket. Slotted posts to take a screwdriver off flat head if the surrounding area is too tight for your fingers. The twisting motion usually breaks the adhesion of sticky joints.
The fans sit on top of the heatsinks, blowing air down to fins that are perpendicular to the motherboard's surface. Aftermarket solutions turn this concept into an ear; They usually consist of a tall heatsink that rises from a socket, with one or two fans pushing air through the fins parallel to the motherboard.
It remains to fix the latches. The process is identical to removing the cooler, only everything needs to be done the other way around (we press the latches and scroll in the direction of the arrow). We did what we planned. It's time to return the side cover of the case to its place, connect all the cables, turn on the computer. By the way, in addition to changing the cooler, we have done another useful procedure - replacing thermal paste(over time, it can dry out, so we made a kind of prevention).
Now about video card coolers. They are easy to install (unscrewed 4 screws, removed the cooler, installed a new one, after releasing the thermal paste from the protective layer, tightened the screws), but it is difficult to choose the right one (this process causes certain difficulties).
In order to change the cooler in the power supply, you need to be “friends” with a soldering iron (if you have cheap models), because. in almost all standard PSUs, the fan wires are soldered. More expensive models won't be a problem. I removed the power supply, unscrewed the screws, removed the PSU cover, disconnected the old cooler (after removing the wires from the port), installed a new one, connected it, screwed the PSU cover.
That's actually all. Step-by-step instruction cooler replacement in your hands, general information - too. If you do not want to waste your time and be nervous because of the wrong cooler change, then contact the KLiK company. Experienced specialists will help to solve any issues with hardware and software. Urgent computer help waiting for your call.
