The QUICKO T12 STM32 soldering station based on the STM32 controller and T12 tips is significantly superior in convenience to soldering stations that do not have thermal stabilization, and even more so to conventional soldering irons. The station based on the STM32 microcontroller and T12 tips with a power of 70 W can comfortably solder both large polygons and massive parts, as well as small SMD elements. Changing tips is done very quickly - you don’t need to wait for complete cooling and there is no need to turn off the power to change the tip. The cable connecting the station and the soldering iron is silicone, soft and heat-resistant. This means that it will not interfere with soldering work due to its flexibility, and it will also be damaged in case of accidental contact with a soldering iron tip.
Peculiarities:
- three-point temperature calibration
- sting base
- motion sensor in the handle
- cold junction compensation sensor in the handle
- sleeping mode
Characteristics:
- Brand: KSGER
- Display: OLED 1.3″
- Operating temperature: 150°C-480°C
- Temperature resistance: 5°C
- Input voltage: 220V
- Output power: 75W
- Controller: STM32 version - 2.0
- Power supply: 24V, 5A
- Case material: plastic
- Plug types: EU
- plug: T12
- handle FX9501
Soldering station settings menu
To enter the soldering station menu, you need to press the soldering station control knob on the front panel and then a menu list consisting of 21 items will be displayed:
- Standby or standby mode. Here you can set the temperature of the tip in standby mode, the time in minutes after which the station will go into standby mode after inactivity, as well as the operating mode of the sensor responsible for waking up. You can choose from 4 modes - Shake (vibration), Switch (switch), Manual (manual), Auto (automatic).
- Sleep or sleep pattern. Here you can configure the idle time in minutes after which the station will go to sleep.
- Boost or increase. Here you can set the value by which you want to temporarily increase the temperature of the tip and the duration of the increase in minutes.
- Cold end. This menu item is responsible for temperature correction depending on the ambient temperature; here you can select the type of thermistor (NTC, PTC) and set the control point (default 24 degrees Celsius).
- Tip or library stings. Here you can select those tips that are available; subsequently, in the tip switching menu, the choice will be made between those marked in the library. The list is extensive, about 80 items, plus custom cells if a specific type of tip is not in the library.
- Stepping or temperature change step. Here you can set the step in degrees Celsius with which the temperature will change when increasing or decreasing in operating mode.
- Password or password protection. Here you set a password to enter the settings menu, and also activate its use.
- Screen Saver or screen saver. Here you can configure the inclusion of the screen saver, as well as the idle time after which the screen saver will be activated.
- Buzzer or squeaker. Here you can turn on or off the beeper, which signals any actions. for example, it reports when the operating temperature is reached, warns about low voltage, etc.
- Voltage or tension. Here you can enable or disable the display of the current voltage value supplied to the tip on the screen.
- LowVol Protect or low voltage protection. Here you can enable protection and signaling of insufficient supply voltage. Thresholds for warning signal and station shutdown are adjusted separately.
- Power On or the operating mode into which the station will boot when power is applied. Here you select the operating mode when turned on, choosing between operating mode, standby mode and sleep mode.
- Desolder or desoldering mode
In this menu item select:
- Valve - valve
- Inching - jogging - Pump setup. Setting the operating time of the pump pump. In this menu item you can set the operating time of the pump pump (10÷60 seconds).
- Language or language selection menu. Here you select the system language, Chinese or English.
- DateTime- current date and time are set
- RTC Adj- adjusting the clock accuracy. At this point you can configure:
- Day Error - correction factor for adjusting the clock rate (-60÷+60 seconds) - RTC Init- reset date and time settings.
- Sys Info or system information. The software version and controller board revision are displayed here.
- Init or initialization. Reset all station settings to factory settings.
- Exit or exit. You can select this item and enter the operating mode, or you can simply make a long press on the encoder knob, the effect is the same.
The T12 tips have a thermocouple connected in series with the heater, and the temperature is measured using it. Thanks to the monolithic design of the tip, the degree of temperature maintenance is very high.
Now on sale a new version soldering station controller Ve2.1S STM32 with OLED1.3. I decided to find out what kind of “beast” it was, and at the same time assemble a soldering station for my brother.
What came out of this under CAT (a lot of text and photos - traffic)
In stores selling KSGER products (as in Ali, and on), for about the second month now, a new controller for the Ve2.1S STM32 OLED1.3 soldering station has been on sale.
I was looking at it for purchase. I wanted to know what the Chinese inventors and innovators created so new. And then my brother, aka , asked me to build him a soldering station. And as if hearing our wishes, the store itself offered to take this controller for review. To say that it took me a long time to decide whether to take it or not is to say nothing. The controller was immediately purchased for a symbolic $2 and within 3 weeks was delivered by courier to my home address.
The package is an unassuming white mailing bag with postal information 
It contains a cardboard box with the KSGER logo and the kit number 
Box dimensions 17x9x11cm 
Weight 218 grams 
Inside the kit itself 
Everything is packed very well, the components are tightly secured with crumpled paper and bubble wrap.
So, what arrived: 
- soldering station controller board Ve2.1S STM32 OLED1.3 + 2 cables with connectors for connecting a power supply and a GX12-5 connector
- HAKKO FX-9501 soldering iron handle assembly
- connector GX12-5
- and as a bonus from the store - soldering tip KSGER T12-BL
Let's look at the arriving components in more detail.
Let's start with the board soldering station controller Ve2.1S STM32 OLED1.3
The board has dimensions 62x30mm 
The width is 2mm wider than the v2.1S board
Double-sided installation.
On one side there are: controller, EEPROM, voltage stabilization circuits and power part, as well as connectors.
On the reverse side there is an OLED_1.3" display and an encoder.
Controller board in detail
Controller circuit diagram 
Mounting side board 
The heart of the board is the U1 controller
Stabilized power supply for the microcontroller and its wiring is provided by the U2 IC in the SOT-223 package, output voltage 3.3 volts
Signal amplification from the soldering tip thermocouple provides operational amplifier U3
To store PID coefficients, the soldering tip uses EEPROM U4
The power part includes:
- soldering iron heater control channel: MOSFET Q1 and transistor Q2 controlling it
- pump motor/solenoid valve control channel: MOSFET Q3
A 3V lithium battery is used for additional power supply to the controller. It is either connected to a connector on the board or soldered directly into the board.
To update the firmware, the printed circuit board has SWD connector contacts, its layout C-D-G-V = Clock, Data, GND, +3.3V.
A 1.3” OLED display is used to display information.
An encoder is used to control the controller.
The soldering quality is good, the SMD elements are located quite evenly, but in the places where the encoder and display are soldered there is flux that has not been washed off.
Connection diagram 
The Ve2.1S soldering station controller board supports JBC and T12 soldering tips.
When using JBC soldering tips, it is necessary to cut the printed path between the contacts 
If after this there is a need to use T12 soldering tips, you must solder the jumper.
The V2.1S soldering station controller board has the ability to connect both a pump motor and a solenoid valve 
.
The new Ve2.1S board provides the ability to control either the pump motor (no changes need to be made on the board) or to control the solenoid valve (changes to the board need to be made according to the figure) 
In this version, a solenoid valve with a 24V supply voltage is connected to the PUMP connector.
Also included with the board are 2 cables. 
one of them is used to connect the soldering iron connector to the board, the other to connect the board to the power supply.
Having analyzed schematic diagram it can be assumed that this board is further development or modification of the board version v2.1S.
Identified differences in circuit design:
- after the stabilizer U2 there is no protective zener diode D2 at 3.3V and an electrolytic capacitor C3 at 100mF*6V;
- instead of the resistive assembly R11 at 4.7 kOhm, separate resistors R2, R6 with the same rating are installed;
- the control cascade of the pump motor/solenoid valve Q3, D3, R14, R15 is located on the board;
- the possibility of using JBC and T12 soldering tips is provided.
Now let's consider soldering iron handle HAKKO FX-9501
The handle is unmarked, there is no HAKKO FX-9501 inscription, no KSGER sticker. Naturally not original.
The casting is of high quality, there are no flashes or burrs. The black rubber cuff is quite elastic.
The handle is carefully assembled, the SW200 position sensor and the NTC thermistor (in heat shrink) are already soldered 
Standard wiring:
- blue wire, position sensor SW200
- white wire, NTC thermistor
- green wire, tip grounding and general position sensor
- black wire, minus power supply for tip T12 and common for the thermistor
- red wire, plus power supply for tip T12
In the GX12-5 connector, the soldered wires are not insulated, which is bad, because... the connector itself is metal and there is a chance of getting a short circuit 
The wire from the soldering iron handle to the GX12-5 connector is silicone, heat-resistant, and quite soft. If we compare it with what I looked at in the previous one, this one is more elastic. Similar to the one I buy on.
Wire length 112cm. 
Diameter 5mm 
The wire withstood a temperature of 350℃ without consequences, only the gloss disappeared at the point of contact with the heated tip 
The tip in the handle is fixed well, but still rotates along the axis.
The pros and cons of this pen are well known; I think there is no point in repeating it.
I will not consider the bonus tip KSGER T12-BL. There are no clear criteria for determining its quality; everything is quite subjective. Some people like these stings, others are not happy with them.
To understand the operation of the new controller, I decided to assemble a full-fledged soldering station based on it (hereinafter referred to as PS).
To assemble the PS I will also need a case and a power supply.
For this PS I purchased it in black with a silver front panel. On this moment There are no 130mm long cases on sale, there are 120, 150 and 180mm ones. The price at the time of purchase was 66¥ ( yuan), which is equivalent to $10.
The kit includes:
- 2 pieces of U-shaped duralumin profile measuring 130x88x19
- front panel with tinted glass (glass is usually not glued in; in the photo it was already glued in by me)
- rear panel with a hole for installing a 3in1 power strip
- mounting screws: 4 pcs. M3 with countersunk head and 4 pcs. M3 with decorative hex head 
In order not to repeat myself, I will not describe in detail the body and its modifications; anyone interested can read it. The only difference: in the previous review, the case was bought with components in different stores, but in this case I already bought a complete set.
It was purchased at the same store. The price at the time of purchase was ¥3.5, equivalent to $0.53. 
The block is the most common, with a fuse and a power switch; I think there is no point in describing it in detail. The only thing I had to do with it was replace the 5A fuse with a 1A one.
Also, it was purchased in the same store. This power supply is specially designed for use in duralumin cases with a cross-section of 88x38mm (photo from the store) 
The cost of this power supply in the store is ¥39, which is equivalent to $5.92.
Stated characteristics:
- output voltage: 24V
- output current: 4A
- power: 96W
- dimensions 83x83mm. 
Power supply board in detail
The power supply is assembled according to the classic flyback pulse circuit based on a PWM controller with an external transistor.
FBI12 IC is used as a PWM controller (IC3). 
I did not find any information on this controller. An analysis of the circuitry showed that its connection circuit is similar to many other Chinese-made controllers (for example, PWM 63D39 in one of the reviews).
The printed circuit board is double-sided, but all radio elements are located on the upper side of the board and are quite dense 
There is only soldering on the bottom side of the board. Also, from the bottom side, the cuts in the PCB between the high-voltage and low-voltage elements of the board are clearly visible 
I will not draw a schematic diagram of this power supply, but I will consider the main cascades and elements:
- a 3A fuse (FS1) is installed at the input 
In the future I may replace it with a jumper, because... there is already one fuse on the power supply and access to it for replacement is much more convenient
- thermistor (NR1) 
- varistor (VR1) 
- input noise filter (L3) 
- an X2 capacitor 0.047mkFx275V is installed at the filter output 
- high-voltage diode bridge (D9-D12) at 800V and 8A 
The board has seats for installing discrete SMD diodes 
- a smoothing capacitive filter consists of two capacitors (C17, C18) 22mkFx400V connected in parallel 
The total capacity is 44mk, which is not enough for the declared power of 96W.
For a soldering iron with a T12 tip, a power of 70W is, in principle, sufficient, especially since the peak power is used only during the initial heating of the soldering tip.
If necessary, you can replace it with capacitors of larger capacity, the seats allow.
- power transistor N-channel MOSFET (N1) 650V and 10A, located on the radiator 
- near the radiator there is a current resistor (R27) 0.18Om 2W
- the pulse transformer is similar in size to those used in switching power supplies of laptops. 
Topology printed circuit board allows installation of pulse transformers of other sizes 
- the high-voltage winding is shunted by an RCD snubber: diodes (D7, D8) are connected in parallel, a high-voltage capacitor (C10) 10nFx630V, resistors (R13-R16) 200kOm are connected in parallel 
- a 200V 10A diode assembly (D2) is installed at the output of the pulse transformer. The assembly itself is placed on the radiator, both diodes are connected in parallel 
- the diode assembly is shunted by the R1C2 chain 
- two electrolytic capacitors (C3, C4) at 680mkFx35V are installed behind the diode assembly 
- then we have a two-winding inductor (L2) 
- another electrolytic capacitor (C7) 47mkFx50V is installed at the power supply output, it is shunted by ceramics (C5) and a load resistor (R3) 10 Om 
- the output voltage stabilization circuit is made according to the classical scheme using an IC (IC1) 
and optocouplers (IC2) 
- an interconnect capacitor (C13) 1.0nF is installed between the high-voltage and low-voltage parts of the power supply, unlike the “folk” power supply, it is correct, with characteristic Y1 
An external inspection of the power supply left a positive impression - it was assembled with high quality, the soldering was neat, the flux was washed off.
Since the case, 3in1 power supply and power supply were purchased in the same store, delivery in China to the carrier’s warehouse was common; it amounted to 8¥, which is equivalent to $1.21.
The assembly process is quite simple and has no special features. I described it in detail in mine.
In short:
- first, to the power supply board, observing the polarity, solder the wire going to the controller board
- screw the back wall into the lower half of the case, insert the 3in1 power supply
- insert the power supply into the housing guides, solder the wires from the power supply to the power supply block
- we fix the tinted glass on the front panel using hot glue
- attach the GX12-5 connector to the front panel, solder the cable to the controller board, do not forget to insulate the wires
- fix the controller board on the front panel using the encoder nut, connect the cable connector to the controller board
- screw the front panel to the bottom half of the case front panel
- connect the controller board to the power supply
I got it like this 
In this position, you can already connect the power cord and test switch on the PS.
Don't forget about the battery. In principle, it is not necessary to use a CR2032 battery; any 3V lithium battery will do. The choice of the CR2032 battery by Chinese engineers is due to its availability; in most cases, it is used in laptops to power the BIOS IC.
As noted above, the controller board allows the use of both batteries with a connector and batteries with terminals for soldering into the board 
I connected a CR2032 battery to the connector.
By and large, you can use the controller without a battery. In this case, you will lose the clock reading on the display. If someone can live without a clock on the PS display, then the battery may not be connected;-).
If during a test run the PS indicator lights up and information is visible on it 
then you can close the case, connect the soldering iron handle and proceed to further testing and configuration.
Looking at the screen of the new Ve2.1S controller gave me a feeling of slight déjà vu, I’ve already seen this somewhere ;-) 
The information on the screen is completely identical to that of the v2.1S board. Which once again confirms the assumption that new board is either a further development or modification of the v2.1S board.
If you go to the settings menu, item 19 and look at Sys Info, you will see 
- HW Version - board release version.
- SW Version - firmware version.
I have never seen firmware version 2.10 before. My controller originally had 2.09, from 0.96" to 1.3" I flashed the controller to firmware version 2.11. And thanks to the efforts of the comrade, a year ago we also got the latest firmware from the author, 2.12.
During testing of the new soldering station controller, Ve2.1S determined that its control is completely the same as version v2.1S. There are no differences in the settings menu. That is, it is still the same v2.1S controller with a slightly different printed circuit board.
Let's summarize some subjective conclusions:
- the new board is a further development or modification of the v2.1S board. I can assume that this is the store’s own development
- its parameters and technical capabilities similar to board version v2.1S
- added the ability to use JBC soldering tips
- added the ability to connect a pump motor or a solenoid valve for a desoldering iron.
During testing and performance checks, the PS on the new Ve2.1S controller behaved adequately; no nuances or problems were found in the operation.
Would I recommend this board to anyone?
Maybe yes. For those who are going to acquire a desoldering iron with a desoldering pump or use JBC soldering tips, this board is more than suitable. For others, the choice of a Ve2.1S or v2.1S controller board is not important; soldering stations based on them will work the same.
As always, thank you all for your attention, I look forward to constructive criticism and comments.
PS Let me remind you that I have on my disk all the firmware I know for soldering stations, hair dryers and combo 2v1. And in there are diagrams of soldering stations known to me, power supplies, as well as instructions for setting up and controlling a soldering station v2.0-2.1S and a hair dryer.
The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.
Planning to buy 0 Add to favorites I liked the review +3 +3
- Price: 44.90 USD
Since childhood I have been interested in radio electronics. During all this time, the horizons of interests changed from multivibrators and detector receivers to microprocessors. But what invariably accompanies every radio amateur on his journey through the fascinating world of radio engineering is a soldering iron.
Do you remember how you sharpened a burnt tip with a file? How did you make a thyristor power regulator, or solder a diode with a button so that the soldering would not overheat? Such times, unfortunately or fortunately, are in the past. Eternal stings and smart power regulators have replaced all this.
I myself have been a user of the Lukey 936D for about three years, and I had almost no complaints about it. But, climbing through the expanses of Aliexpress, I saw THIS. And the essence in the form of a gnome in me quietly, but very persistently whispered: “Your leg. LOOK AT THIS. THERE’S EVEN TIME HERE.”
I couldn’t disagree with this argument, and so a month later I was walking home from work not just tired, but also happy and with a package under my belt.
In the product description, the package looks like this:
In reality I received:
But today the Russian Post was powerless! No matter how much they played football with this parcel, they failed to break something inside them.
Inside the parcel:
What’s interesting is that they included a plug for connecting the hookah in the kit - apparently it’s a gift :)
Having started the assembly, I noticed interesting thing: there is no connector for 220V on the power supply.
OK. We are simple people, we will get along. I looked at the board, at the markings on it, and found contact pads for 220V. I got soldered with approximately the same emotions
And who knows them, the Chinese? I walked around the corner and turned it on. Hooray! The red terminals have 24.5V – exactly as much as needed.
And this is not the only problem that occurred due to the semi-updated configuration of the parcel. The board simply does not fit inside the case.
It was difficult to insert it in half, but the radiator rests closely at the top.
You might think that “this is not a bug, this is a feature,” but no - with such abuse, the body expands a little, which further complicates assembly.
A few words about soldering - it’s quite up to par here. We don’t take into account the eternal flux stains that can be found in any Chinese device. Look at reverse side control board:
The front part is assembled simply and effortlessly. The control board is attached to it with the encoder's fixing tab and its nut. The board does not stand up straight enough, which means the screen is slightly crooked. This doesn’t affect my work; I, being a bit of a perfectionist, don’t notice it. I will describe the procedure for assembling the front part:
1. Put the control board in place. Do not tighten the nut too much. (you'll understand why later)
2. Insert a five-pin cable, solder it to the connector of the soldering iron (to do this, you can disassemble the plug of the soldering iron, insert it into the connector and solder the wires by color. All the colors matched for me, but I checked anyway, and I advise you to do the same )
3. Fix the connector, solder the power wires, fix the soldering iron socket on the front part, assemble the front part with the main body, tighten the screws.
4. And only after that we unscrew the nut from the encoder, stick a sticker with a piece of display glass and inscriptions on the face, and then properly fix the encoder.
5. You are excellent!
Soldering iron socket connector and soldering iron plug
I want to say that the fit of the case here is simply exquisite. The front part, as it were, “absorbs” the upper and lower parts of the body, and simply inserting them there, inside, will not work. You need to insert the lower part, place the upper part on its grooves at an angle, bring it into the front part at the same angle, and only then lower it. In this case, you need to hold the front part.
The rear part is also not without flaws. This was done without taking into account the walls of the holes for the screws; when screwed together, everything looks like this:
But it doesn’t matter, we grind off the excess plastic, and everything is solved with little effort.
My attention was also drawn to stings. Tips of the HAKKO-T12 type are used here. I asked the seller to send me a T12-KL, with sharpening for left-handed people. But send me the universal T12-K and the cone-shaped T12-ILS for all sorts of SOIC and SMD. Not what I ordered, but it can work.
The seller writes that you can choose the tip yourself - here is a plate of the ones he has. Google brings up its image by name.
After assembly, I inserted a cone-shaped tip into the soldering iron, turned on the station and... ERROR. A couple of minutes of checking showed that everything was assembled correctly - the problem was the sting. I couldn’t get over the idea that I wouldn’t be able to use this sting—I liked it too much. Picking the sting led me to a secret place:
This is a cap that hides two heater contacts connected to a contact pair. There was simply no contact in this place. I crimped them with pliers and the problem went away.
Soldering iron.
The soldering iron itself is unusual for me. Let's compare with the same Lyukeevsky, who has seen the world:
I don’t know about you, but I can only call such a soldering iron a pussy. Jokes aside, what really bothered me was that the sting is sitting in a plastic shaft, and, sooner or later, the heat will reach there. Is this plastic heat resistant or not? And who knows, time will tell. It feels cheap to the touch, so wobbly and glossy. But, oddly enough, it is convenient for them to work.
The plug is more convenient than the Lyukeev one - it constantly tried to slip out of the connector, but here such a number would not work - I tightened the lock and forgot about this problem altogether.
Handle thread
Soldering iron insides
Let's start with the fact that a soldering iron can:
1. Cool down your ardor with the Standby function for a given number of degrees while the owner rummages through the box with resistors;
2. Go to sleep - a mode in which voltage is not supplied to the soldering iron at all, while the owner has forgotten about the switched-on soldering iron and gone about his business;
3. Heat the soldering iron with the Boost function to a specified number of degrees;
4. Track the movements of the soldering iron - for this purpose there is a mercury ball inside it (as stated). If there is no movement for a certain number of minutes, the station goes into standby or sleep. On my own behalf, I will say that the ball is very sensitive, it reacts even if you put something like a glass on the table with moderate force;
5. Show time. Very important!
6. And the pulp, most importantly - to this station you can set a PASSWORD! A soldering iron on a password is something new 🙂 In fact, I can’t imagine using this function.
The software version in this designer is 2.1S, the Chinese wrote that “V3.0 is newer, but 2.1S is the best.” Believe it or not, I don’t know. 🙂 But I can definitely say that in terms of convenience and comfort, this station is ahead of the same Lukey 936D. I can be absent-minded, and that’s why sometimes the soldering iron was left on for 4-5 hours. Here he will simply go to sleep, and the chance that something bad will happen is reduced.
By the way, about convenience: compare the sizes of these stations
I was very impressed by this difference, because there is always not enough space on the desktop. Definitely +++ in the karma of the creators of switching power supplies :)
More photos of the soldering station menus:
Photos
Useful information: to switch from Chinese to English, you need to press the encoder (3 seconds), find the 15th item in the menu. I found it by touch :)
According to measurements with a multimeter, the difference between the real and displayed temperatures ranges from 7-10 degrees.
Epilogue
I love collecting things with my own hands. But I can’t understand the “screw two screws, insert it here, be proud – now you’re a DIVISIONER” style kits. Still, the “do it yourself” ideology implies some kind of complexity, interest, process in the end, from which you and you have fun.
This is undoubtedly the same case. But it's obvious not a manufacturer's concept, this is the result of inconsistency in production and insufficient attention to detail. If your file is “smoking” from the opportunity to finish something, solve a problem, repair it, I can recommend purchasing such a set, especially since the station did not raise any complaints from me regarding the electronics and software. And I enjoyed the assembly process. From now on, it takes the place of the main soldering iron.
Otherwise, it is better to take a closer look at other sets, or, what would be more accurate, at already assembled stations.
Product rating: 6/10. Minus two points for a dubious soldering iron, two more for problems with the case. That's all I wanted to say. Thanks for your attention :)
The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.
The purchase of this set was made after reading different reviews about STM32 stations, the review was especially influential sancho1971, which describes everything in great detail and to which I will constantly refer here. For what sancho1971 Thank you very much to you.
So, having studied the material, I realized what I was missing in my station, also on T12, but on a simple, almost folk controller. Like this
Namely:
1. Automatic compensation of cold joint temperature in the range of 9÷99 ℃.
2. PID temperature control, maintaining stability ± 2℃.
3. For all types of HAKKO T12 tips (84 items) it is possible to carry out
individual 3-point calibration with storage of PID parameters in a non-volatile
memory. There are also 6 user settings. It is possible to create your own list
used stings. This is perhaps the most useful, I’m tired of twisting the stand for each sting.
4. Automatic transition to standby mode (you can set the time 1÷60 minutes) with a decrease in the temperature of the tip to the set value.
5. Automatic transition to sleep mode (soft shutdown) (time can be set 1÷60 minutes).
The decision was made, but there was one obstacle: there was no desire to contact TaoBao. After a short search and Ali, two sellers were found. It was decided to order everything from one, firstly cheaper, secondly as a set. By the way, he had a completely new version of the controller, but the seller could not explain how it differs from this one.
Like this
Of course, I understand that it probably costs more, but the quest with TaoBao was not at all interesting to me.
And then a friend asked me to look at the building for the station on Ali, and we decided to combine the order. We take a kit with a plastic case + an aluminum case; I already had a folk power supply in stock. The total at that time with the coupon, rounded up, was $56 without a block + $7 block. A friend took the case for $9. Total $54.
Set 
Switch with fuse 
Wires and connectors 
The controller is version 2.0, there is quartz, the clock works, but there are no batteries included, you will have to buy more. 
The case, self-adhesive legs are included in the kit, and the protective glass is in one copy. 
The front panel is light, I had to drill a hole, like sancho1971, otherwise the board is installed crookedly. 
The kit included 3 tips to choose from, except BCM2, I chose 
Handle, I like this one, and I’m used to it 
, maybe later I’ll buy HAKKO FX-9501
I’ll dwell on the handle in more detail, it’s certainly not put together so well, and the design is economical 
Although version 2.2 
Thermistor and mercury switch are present
The power supply, as I already said, was used by the people
Not because I had it, but because I bought one on Ali like the one in the review sancho1971 I didn’t succeed, but it is placed in this case as if it were original, in special guides on the inside of the case.
Now such blocks have appeared on sale, but their price is too high for now.
Modified according to recommendations kirich
For which I also thank him very much.
Everything fits perfectly into the case, but there are slight difficulties with the power supply; if you place it on racks, the top cover rests against the radiator. As a temporary solution, I put insulating pads on it and stuck it on double-sided tape, it holds very tightly.
Assembly is very simple, drill a 4 hole in the front panel for the encoder protrusion, then connect all the connectors, all wires are included, the power supply has connectors for 220 and +24, the main thing is not to mix it up + And - to the controller power supply. Everything worked right away, as they say, out of the box, only the menu was in Chinese, switch point 13.
Next, menu setup and tip calibration 
For menus, settings, tip calibrations, read the review sancho1971 everything is described in detail there; I see no point in repeating myself.
By the way, I got a one-color screen 
, and in the review sancho1971 two-color.
Pros:
1. Simple, convenient control
2. Informative display
3. A large number of customizable functions through the menu
4. PID - software maintenance of the set temperature
5. Software calibration of cold joint temperature
6. Software calibration of tip temperature at 3 points for 84 standard HAKKO tips and 6 custom tips
7. Custom list of stings
Minuses:
1. Probably the price
2. Careless assembly of the controller, careless assembly of the handle (but these are rather particular)
3. The supply voltage does not display correctly at +24 on the screen +18
The plans are to modify the power supply mounts, change the display to 1.3, modify the handle, or buy a HAKKO FX-9501.
Gratitude sancho1971 for the excellent review and for the additional review on the remodel
Thank you all for your attention.
Inspired by the review sancho1971 I finished the station a little, set the screen to 1.3 instead of 0.96 and new firmware. The screen was hard to solder and as a result I just bit it off so as not to spoil the board.
Like this with a big screen 
Special thanks to salamatin, for help with codes and diagrams. 
